 Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm trying to find an M12 spline bit as a separate tool, the one I’ve been lent is 107mm 1/2", but i can only find one that is 100mm long and 1/2" drive, or part of a set M4-M12.
Can someone point me to this M12 spline bit, or are there any other M spline bolts on our 33's that would justify buying the set? Thanks |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:14 am Post subject: |
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I used to have a 2cv! 'Bluebell'!!! 
Loved that car 
Bob |
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| Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:47 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks Johnboy, I have changed the heads in my 8v's sooo many times before, about time i did a 16v i guess. A friend is lending me the head bolt tool, he said its a ford one but i guess it should be ok. | |
| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Hi
not good chap. you can do the job in car,you need t55 torx bit. when i killed my engine.killed all 8 one side.and bent one on the otherside.which a mate straightened for me in the head with a piece of nylon and hammer.that was four years ago.engines still fine,bobbber will back me up.  if you pm me your number i will talk you through it.plus i have spare heads
john |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Got the belts and pulleys today, spoke to the mechanic at an alfa garage, the one who said a one in 20 chance, he said there is a position for the cams to be in where the pistons don’t hit the valves as he once was lucky when a N/S belt broke, he kept driving from Reigate to Rusper, put a new belt on and all was ok. I'm hoping this has happened, I will remove belts and old pulley tensioners, replace pulleys and get new pulleys pressed onto old tensioners, refit belts, time her up and cross my fingers. | |
| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:16 am Post subject: |
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| Borrowed sister in laws 2cv charleston when sud off the road many years ago. Once i got my head around the gearshift, it was sort of fun. Made the sud feel flipping quick though!
John |
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| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:44 am Post subject: |
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| lol a friend of mine had one aswell, he was mad into them, used to goto 2cv race meets and stuff lol. He told me he got pulled over by the police, who were grinning, asking do you know what speed you were doing? no he replied, they told him and he said, i didnt know it could go that fast. I cant remember what speed he was doing. | |
| Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:28 am Post subject: |
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| I had a 2cv for 8 years.... VERY underrated car actually.
Bob  |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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| was looking forward to driving a 2cv |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Al,
I don't think you will be able to move the cams into any positions to have the valves all closed on both cylinders, and if there were two positions, the camshafts wont stay there. When turning the cam sprockets it takes a bit of effort to turn them, as they are under the tension of the valve springs, so if you were say fitting a new belt you have to devise a tool to lock them in the desired position using the holes and not the teeth. The car will also probably be undriveable on two cylinders if it would start at all. John |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Been trying to figure out at what position the cam belt has to fail for the valves to be in a position for them not to be bent and cant.
Induction, inlet valves open, compression, inlet and exhaust valves closed, ignition, inlet and exhaust valves closed, exhaust, exhaust valves open. Cylinders 2 & 4 fire one after the other, so you have half of the cycle of the penultimate cylinder where valve are closed, compression and explosion. The last cylinder is closed for compression/explosion just as penultimate is 1/2 way through explosion??? So it is possible? Anyone got an idea where the cam timing would be pointing? I could then move the cams so they are fully closed, take of injectors and remove plugs and drive it. as i cant get hold of the car or anyone to tow it. |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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| thanks, ill bear that in mind if and when i have to remove the head.
yer thats it, cam seal, so can it be done without removing head??? I was only thinking of just ordering the head gasket by itself but if it can be done. |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| cam bearing? do u mean the cam seal, you should get these with the headgasket set unless you are using an 8v headgasket. | |
| Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok, I ordered pulleys and belts today, but not tensioners, as there are 2 types, which is where my problem started. The garage can press the pulleys onto the old tensioners, is that a problem or do the springs need replacing? Can the springs be ordered separately?
I have noticed a slight oil leak in the past from the right side and it has been suggested that the cam bearing might be at fault. Do you have to remove the head to do this? I was thinking as the cam belts this could be done. |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Yep that's about it Al but i didn't undo the engine mount to do mine but it would make the job easier. | |
| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:57 am Post subject: |
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| thanks guys, think its going to be a long time until im driving her again, if it turns out next week that all is bent up, which i expect it will be.
So are you saying that with that specialised tool or a torque drive set i should be able to get the head off without dropping engine, I have done loads of heads on my 8v. Undo front engin mount, move engine over, undoo head cover, use alfa tool or torque drive set, remove head???? |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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| hi, i experienced tensioner failure on 16V engine already.
bent all eight valves LH side, had to replace valves, guides, and lifters. i removed the head without dropping the engine, not a beginner's job though. replacing valve guides is a nightmare as exhaust guides are cast iron and not bronze, they are brittle and will explode if hammered in ; moreover they come out of the package drilled but not bored, you have to ream them after installing them (and reamer is 7mm dia, which is highly non-standard diameter, hence hard to find). sourcing another undamaged head might prove cheaper and quicker, since needed parts are awfully expensive at your local dealer. wish you good luck with your rebuild, regards, zp 
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Steve,
Pretty sure he hasn't appeared yet mate! Bob |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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| the heads are quite easy to get off if you havea torque drive set like me ,
the pain is the cover, i ended up undoing the engine mounts to get it off, knowing what i do now i could do the whole job in a day but hey i`ve had the practise.its a shame i gave the headsi had to the guy who bought my alfa otherwise i would have let you have the head and make the job easy. has anyone heard of him on here, he did say he would come on here. |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Hi
i think it's this one you're referring to  |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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| I’m not a member of the AA "Alfa Aholics" I’m afraid, however I am able to borrow a car for a week and a half, so I will tow it somewhere else.
I’m a little worried about the brakes as they went spongy, not like the normal hard pedal when engine isn’t assisting the servo, I would hate to go into the back of my friends car whilst being towed. Let’s hope I can be as lucky as I was with my electrics. I’ll get the belt and pulleys done and see if I can borrow that Alfa tool from the Alfa mechanic that will rebuild the heads so I could attempt to remove engine in situ, hope not. Thanks guys |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Al,
Bad times mate. Just to let you know the heads can be taken off with the engine in situ. How do i know this? I've done it myself! Had to make a tool to get the rear head bolts off but it can be done. Also I've got some valves here if you need them. They just need a clean up and re-seating. |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Al,
Don't you have breakdown cover so they'll send you a pickup and take it home? If not... there are several places on eBay who will tow it for you for probably £50. Don't drive it! Bob |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks guys, I hear what you’re saying but feel I have no choice re driving it, I’m in Brighton, car is in Horley, I cant leave it in the pub car park and I cant find anywhere local to move it to. My thinking is that the damage, if any, must be done already, as the belt went when changing from 4th to fifth and then drove for about 300meters and then cranked it over 2 or 3 times. If miraculously the valves came to rest all closed, or away from head, no more damage can be done? | |
| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Al, don't try driving the car until a new belt has been fitted, timed etc. If you drive it you WILL bend some valves on that side for sure.
16v head can only be taken off with engine out really. An alfa specialist told me it's possible but you have to undo engine mounts, lean the engine over, and probably use the special tool that Keith has mentioned. With engine out, head swap is no big deal really. Cheers, John |
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