 Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 8:39 am Post subject: |
|
| MOT failed G-plate sud - don't think that is possible?
MOT failed G-plate 33 perhaps. I have come across just two types of thrust bearing for a 33 clutch kit - yet to come across one that has failed. Clutch slip most likely with worn plate (or plate contamination). Often have come across another problem where the thrust bearing has broken off the tips of the splines and pushed right through, but this just means that you can't change gear. |
|
| Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:41 pm Post subject: |
|
| Hi
Doesn't the kit contain a new thrust bearing. I have an old (but new) Sud one in the garage I can dig out and show you if it would help. All the best Keith |
|
| Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject: |
|
| just asked my local motor factors for a spiogot bearing and was informed main dealer only, so just spoke to a main dealer and he was describing it over the phone to me, a bush like thing with 3 pins, surrounded by a gear?.......sounds like he is on drugs to me, I'm thinking it should be a simple plain or needle-roller bush.......or am I missing something?.......said I would take a look at the type and condition before buying new as it sounded like grief.........does anyone know what type I need - what the hell does it look like?
also just collected £120 worth of Quinton Hazell clutch, opened the box and its a genuine Valeo unit.....my motorfactor tells me QH have done some sort of deal with Borg & Beck, Valeo and LUK, and therefore now QH are all genuine OE quality.........bonus! |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 9:00 pm Post subject: |
|
| I'm not sure what size your slave cylinder is, but I think the standard Alfa one I use is 1". Going up a size in your master cyliner will reduce your travel (The AP Racing MC I used is actually 0.9375"). I used 1/4" plastic coated braided hose from from to back. About £60 but worth it for ease of installation.
Good luck Rich |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:16 pm Post subject: |
|
| excellent replies guys, 80,000 miles sounds about right, sounds like mine did well to get to 90,000, I will check the spigot bearing condition toojust ordered a clutch today, hopefully a new one will be included in the kit......
yeah, I had also looked at the clutch line ID and thought it was way too thin for clutch use whereby much more fluid flow is needed than compared to brakes, I will probably upgrade it based on what you say, as the clutch pedal travel feels way too stiff and too long in travel, I have a feeling my master cyl size is smaller than 1" too........ going to attack it this weekend, just passed its MOT so better get my skates on and make the most of the good weather, thanks again guys. |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:40 pm Post subject: |
|
| Hi
My general assumption with a 33 clutch is that they last about 80k of general use. However it is normally the thrust bearing that goes first. For clutch alignment on the P4 I used a 1/2" extension bar with the diameter increased slightly with insulation tape. All the best Keith |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
|||
I use a 5 speed alfa 'box, VW clutch pedal and AP Racing 1" master cylinder. (I also use oversize hydraulic clutch pipe as I found the standard diameter didn't allow the fluid to travel quick enough with my set up - works great now) I should think your problem does lie in the clutch plate though - would have been an easy swop at the time - but you know that now. [/u] |
|||
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:33 am Post subject: |
|
| thanks for the quick replies guys........yeah, I bled the hydraulic clutch system well, I'm sure theres no air in it as the pedal is nice and solid.....dont forget I'm using a VW beetle box with a hydraulic clutch kit - is this what you use on your spyder?..........
I will have an other fiddle tonight to be absolutley sure its fully retracting and not pre-loading the clutch........the donor engine had done 90,000 miles when I bought it from an MOT failed G-plate sud - due to body rot, which I find a believable story........I took a flier on the clutch thinking it would be ok, and it didnt work out, theres a lesson for me 
Thanks for your message on the wiring, I since found out green/black is +ve, white is coil -ve, black is body ground (-ve) |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:03 am Post subject: |
|
| Before you start stripping it down again, are you sure there is full travel on the clutch release lever and clutch pedal; and is the system properly bled? I'm sure it's all sorted but just a thought before you steam ahead (esp because of the mix of VW and Alfa parts)
(PS, there a PM to you still sitting in my outbox from last year) |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 9:10 am Post subject: |
|
| Hi,
You don't need to lock the flywheel as such, but may need to hold it with a screwdriver or big box spanner on cranknut to torque up clutch bolts. You just need an alignment tool for the disc, which you can either get from too /parts shop e,g draper or sykes pickavant, or make one to replicate input shaft with rod and tape. Think 200mm? Certainly for 16v, prob for 1.7 8v. Valeo is OEM. If the slave looks at all iffy change it whilst box off. John |
|
| Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:46 am Post subject: 8v clutch change tips |
|
| just took my beach buggy out for a ride after an engine swap from a 1.5 to a 1.7 8v, and the clutch is slipping under mild/heavy acceleration, had a fiddle with the clutch release mechanism to ensure its not pre-loading the clutch, and all was fine, so after slaving my balls off swapping engines, looks like I need to slide it off again to change the clutch, and I'd appreciate some tips
1) do I need any special alfa tools for locking the flywheel, or will a general clutch locking widget do the job? 2) what size clutch do I need 180mm or 200mm? 3) what make should I go for - I read Valeo on another thread all help much appreciated  |
|