 Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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| sweet bobbber, that would be grand. I have the manual but i don't have the K scale an N scale, or the special vacuum gauge they use, only kg/h reading on a synchrometer, so i don't know what it should be, so i just averaged what the reading was for all 4.
I was only posting to warn peeps about possible throttle cable stretch and ask what interval period is normal before checking again. |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Al,
I've only ever had injected 33s and my single carb 2cv didn't have anything like the set up on the twin carb 33s. Someone else probably knows the answer to this. If you need any more help with 16v throttle set-up and alignment though, I've just done the lot and it runs beautifully, please let me know. Bob |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| ahh, ok, do you have a guide on how to check all this correctly, save flooding a carb'd engine, as the last carb'd one i had a go at, there was no slack but the throttle pedal didn't open the butterflies to WOT and then wouldn't close fully. Indicating pedal stop to high or as you say accelerator bar adjustment not set up correctly.
Poor owner had to take out spark plugs and turn over engine and it took him quite a long time to get it going again, we did depress the accelerator pedal quite a few times though, not thinking it would cause such a problem. His WOT was 5 - 7mm off!! |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Yes, in that case pedal stop too high. Or it could be that the accelerator bar adjustments on the throttle bodies are out.
Bob |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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| I see, so check there is no slack and one would still need to check that WOT is achieved and that the cable doesn't bend the throttle stops.
I can see a time where there is no slack but the cable doesn't move the throttle to WOT because the pedal stop is too high. |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Al,
This adjustment is for when your foot is "off the pedal" mate. Move the circlip to a position where the cable is completely taut but doesn't move the accelerator bar. If you didn't get WOT, it's because your initial press of the pedal is taking up slack in the cable, not moving the throttle butterflies. So, the adjustment here has nothing to do with the throttle bodies or WOT actually. It just has to be taut but not moving the bar with "foot off". So please, put the brick down now 
Bob |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 11:43 am Post subject: Throttle cable adjustment period |
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| Hey guys
I just thought id let you know and ask a question at the same time. Since i put my head back on about 7 months ago, i thought i would check the throttle cable. Lo and behold WOT was 2mm off, so i moved the circlip 1 ridge. Here's the letting you know part go and check yours
Here's the question, how long does this need before looking at again? Please be careful when removing the circlip, i have done it a few times and still managed to drop it onto the top of the engine block, doh! Had to fashion an aerial to act as a telescopic magnet. Word of warning to carb owners, you will end up flooding your engine big time if you keep checking by pressing the pedal all the way down to see if the butterflies open fully. Anyone got any good recommendations for this? I was thinking of a brick, or something to fix the pedal to the metal, so the pedal only gets pressed once. Then adjust the adjuster on the cable so its tight and then check that it closes fully on no throttle. |
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