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[Ravi]

I think I may have raised this before, but I would like some advice on rust repair.

A small spot of rust has appeared on my 33's tailgate. I was initially just going to sand it back and dab on a little "rust converter" but I have since decided i'm going to try and do a little better job.

Can anyone give me any tips on how to do this? I was going to:

1. Sand back all rusted metal to bare metal

2. Apply rust converter

3. Apply bog (putty or whatever its called)

4. sand back till smooth

5. Apply two coats of primer

6. Apply two coats of spray on touch up paint

7. wax when dry

Is there anything else I should or can do to make this better?

Thanks guys
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1986 33 QV

Looking to upgrade to a 16v?...

[johnboy]

4. sand back till smooth

5. Apply two coats of primer

6. Apply two coats of spray on touch up paint

Is there anything else I should or can do to make this better?

Hi there

when you sand it back,run your fingers over it,if you can fill anything your see it when its sprayed.make sure you use fine sand paper up to at least 800 grit when you spray the repair, i little trick to get more presure out of the spray can is to put in warm-hot water.make sure you dont let it get to hot as it mite go bang this will help the paint atomis and will go on better.you can put as much paint as you luck but do light coats or you'll get runs not good. i should know as i do this for a living. ive got to repair my car as my mate drove into the rear quarter on friday and put a nice crees in it.

regards john
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WODA WE NEED? MORE POWER!!

Alfa gt jtdm blackline
1990 S2 16v veloce sleeping!
2002 ts gtv the wifes now
1997 seadoo gsx 800
1999 freestyle superjet

[guest]

Make sure you go progressively through sandpaper grades to at least 1200 grit by which point it should be like smooth smooth smooooooooooth

And as said, dont expect much of a finish from aerosol can paint.

[James Granger]

Instead of using an aerosol, you could even paint it by hand.

In any case after painting I'd sand it down again with ultrafine paper 1100-1500 (after it's dry) and then T-cut like a mad-man to finish it off properly.

[Ben_nz]

I'd just like to say I hate rust.

This might not look too bad (it's like this on the other side too) but it has been repaired before and there's apparently more rust (and less metal) the further back the panelbeater goes. It's all complicated by the seam sealer or whatever has been applied in the previous repair, and the complicated shape of this part of the car. The car is in the panelbeaters at the moment, busily racking up repair costs.
That's not the only fun part of Alfa 33 ownership I've discovered..

And even more fun..

Aaaaaaaaargh!
What to do, with a 'character' car that is busily self-destructing but has an engine that doesn't even use oil? Drive it like hell, I suppose.

[Eddie W]

Just repaired that taillight area on my S1,complete with a new section on the inside. Not as bad as the new sill sections complete with the stiffener panel on the inside and as for the rear of the wheel arch; AARGH! Only got the Rrear tailight area,part of the r/h sill, the bottoms of all the doors, the r/h front guard, under the rear bumper mounts and more of the l/h rear wheel arch still to go. You do wonder sometimes.
Regards Eddie
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A LITTLE FURTHER A LITTLE FASTER