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BigAl
P4


Joined: 06 May 2003
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Location: U.K Surrey

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:31 am    Post subject: I.C.E Reply with quote

In Car Entertainment.
I would like to start a serious thread on the subjest to help me.
Please post pics, suggestions and tips on what you have done to your 33.

I'm after SQL not SPL Smile
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Last edited by BigAl on Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My setup so far which I started in 2004 lol and still haven’t got round to finishing it.

Head unit
Alpine CDE-9827R

Amp
DLS CA21

Sub
JL Audio 10w3v2-d4 @2 ohm

I have just found out that the amp I bought with the sub should not be used at 2 ohm. I took it apart and found a blown mosfet and resistor. I have fixed that now and plan to use it for the front components and add the following.

Components
SPL Dynamics SD5.2 5 ¼” Thinking of going to 6.5" later

Sub amp
JL Audio 500/1

Sub box
I have just had a slot ported box made by a friend, wow what a difference that made. I gave him moral support when making it and held this and that.

I can now use the JL sub amp without worrying as it will go down to 1.5 ohms

I connected the components today and ran them off the head unit.
I need to figure out how to fit them properly and not look too out of place, HELP!

I was planning on using an MDF ring to screw the component to and then shaping the other side to fit to the metal of the door in the lower front corner. When I looked today, guess which of the two types of regulators I have. Yes, the ones that point to the front and are right in the way!!

I noticed that all the OEM Alfa speakers have all fallen apart, the rubber / foam connecting the cone to the frame has disintegrated!

I was thinking of putting down some 20mm ply wood in the boot floor, screwing the amps down to this and then screw some 1” by 1” strips to the ply wood base and then cutting out the shape of the amps and sub from ply board to make a false floor to hide the wires. I could also make a bracket to hold the sub box in place with a padlock for security.
To be able to get to the space saver I could undo the padlock, lift out the sub box, remove the false floor, which wont be fixed and open a hinged opening for the spare.

Any other ideas?
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john 33_16v
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Joined: 27 May 2005
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Location: herts, uk

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigAl wrote:

To be able to get to the space saver I could undo the padlock, lift out the sub box, remove the false floor, which wont be fixed and open a hinged opening for the spare.

Any other ideas?


Just make sure you'd be happy to do all this hoodini stuff in the dark, when it's pissing with rain at the side of the road Wink Oh and that your girlfriend is happy to have the full sized alloy on her lap so you don't get the back seat dirty.

John
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey john, lol.
I did think about this and I will be able to do this from the back seat, so won’t get wet. I have a p4 doughnut to take up the space with the space saver, so worst case scenario when the alloy is in the boot is a bit of non edible doughnut in the car.
The other solution would be to attach the space saver to the back of the sub box, but I don’t like the look of that.

Would leaving a circular hole over the spare wheel well cause a problem with the sub being on top of it, rather than a hinged opening?

Anyone got any ideas on upgrading the tweeters but still keeping them in the same place as OEM ones?
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tweeters are small, the oem speakers are mid range all be it small ones and they are 1 way, no tweeters in them, I fitted years ago a whole host of alpine gear in my car but decided I would rather be noticed for the car and engine note not the music. Rolling Eyes
When i removed the 2 Alpine amps(1x 4ch 75watt per channel with dual crossovers and 1 75w 2 channel amp) and 11 speakers (4 tweeters, 4x 4inch mids, 2 6x9s and a 12"sub) my cars performance was dramatically improved. I still have the Alpine titanium coned 6" speakers and the 75watt x2 Alpine Amp If your interested. When you place some tweeters in your car put them high up by the tops of the windscreen in each corner, that will really improve sound clarity especially listening to the radio.
I also still have some fancy gold fuses and holders I think.

When you fit you sub and enclosure in Al take the sub out and bolt through the bottom of it to your ply wood, it looks much neater. Smile
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Iain.
The ser 3 come with 20w RMS components up front and the tweeters are in the top of the door card near the mirror adjuster / air vent for the door window. I am wondering how to fit tweeters in the same place so they don’t stick out.
The music is for my ears lol not outside listeners. Laughing
Thanks for the offer, I will not be adding anything else, I will be upgrading the components to 6.5” in the future to better ones to improve quality.
I need to be able to get to the spare wheel, so cant bolt anything down.
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33bits
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Joined: 23 May 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds LOUD!!!
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greencloverleaf pat
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:35 pm    Post subject: pics Reply with quote

alan here are the pics for you.

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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Pat
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been reading up on this stuff and think i am not going to be able to keep an OEM look and will have to make something.
Here are some pics.
With trim
What someone else has done
Without trim
Close up of regulator 1
Close up of regulator 2

NS boot
middle boot 1
middle boot 2
OS boot
boot carpet / template

sub placement

sub dimensions W584mm x H305mm x D327mm
sub amp dimensions L340mm W235mm H60mm

Speaker amp dimensions 51,5mm x 280mm x 290mm

I had the idea to use mdf spacers on the metal of the door, with the face that is attached to the metal shaped so it is air tight, i was also thinking of dynamatting the whole of the metal in one sheet and cut out screw holes for the door handles.
Rough dimensions of the boot floor looking in from the rear ourside of the car is
94 cm wide
76 cm from front to back boot catch panel
62 cm spare wheel well
90 mm high to the sill behind the rear seats
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Last edited by BigAl on Fri May 28, 2010 8:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a template for the boot by using the carpet to make the first template, then i used card to add missing bits.


Then I guessed where the center of the spare wheel was and put in the thing to hold the spare wheel in place.


I then cut marked it out and cut a hole.


Then I measured across the hole and used the space saver foam block to cut out a hole.


I then made another template from the first one and the final result is.






I will use this to make the hardboard top and as a guide for the base, I will have to make it narrower to fit in, probably along the lines of the bumper brackets
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JeremyC
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ICE is Alfa flat four! And a £60 Sony, coupled with the stock 16V speakers it's suprisingly good.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I'm in the Jeremy camp on this issue. Smile
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: I.C.E Reply with quote

BigAl wrote:

I would like to start a serious thread on the subjest to help me.

Come on guys, not helping.
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JeremyC
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keeping an OEM look is good, anything else risks looking like the Saxo / 106 brigade.

For me, utility of the car is everything so some of your boot mods would be a step too far IMO, but it depends what you use the car for (our 33 is our 'sensible' car).

Does Pat's picture really show some sort of tweeter replacing the fresh air feed? For me, the fresh air ventilation of the 33 is one of it's huge strengths. You can drive along windows up if you want and have a decent fresh air supply. Infinitely better than the poxy aircon on our company MINIs (which you also can't drive at speed with the windows down, far more buffeting than on a 33 at similar speed).
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pics from pat were to see if i could dash mount the speakers, but they need to be boxed and there will not be enough room for correct size box, so i opted for door mounting them, hence all the door pics.

I wanted to keep the oem look but 4x6 speakers are crap and so I have to mod the door cards, i got let down in that dept from the person who "was supposed to have some cards"
I want to be able to put back to factory look if i ever sell the car.
I don't need the boot space, but need to be able to get to the spare, hence the cut out for the boot floor base.

If anyone has ideas, helpful ones, please post.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have thought about using the existing spare wheel clamp to hold down the round cut out of plywood in place, spaced out with blocks if need be to keep it level.
I can then have to large batons either side of the sub box allowing me to move the sub box forwards or backwards.
If there is not enough room to get the spare out I can use wing nuts so the batons can be removed.

Here is a mock up layout



I need some help with sub loading.
I know that nothing should be in the way of the sub speaker and sub loading face, ie the back of the boot.
When the car is finished it will be taken to a car audio place and the crossover points along with amp levels will me matched to get the best frequency curve.
I have left some room for the sub box to be moved forward and backwards.

This maybe a shot in the dark, but how much space is needed between the sub and the loading face to stop sound wave cancellation and to get the sound waves in phase with each other.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got tired of waiting to get door cards and thought I would modify mine and then replace if and when I sell the car.

First I took some pictures of the door with the card and without the card and got my Photoshop buddy to overlay them with 80% opacity.

This is so I can see exactly where I can cut for the woofer. I plan to make the surrounding attach to the door rather than the door card.

Here you can see the tweeter location

I decided to put the new tweeters in the same place, which will keep some purists happy and prevent the rainbowing effect.
I cut out my template but noticed that the original tweeter cover was the exact same size, so I just drew around that.
I used a dremel to enlarge the hole, then I cut and glue gunned all the wires and crossover in place.
Here is the final result.


This is only a start and temporary, I am using the original woofers, which are… well have a look.

I used a pair of wire cutters and cut around the tubes, about 8 times and pushed them through, these hold the speaker cover onto the speaker.
I did this to cover up the holes in the rear doors and again to look original and I will do the same for the fronts when I fit the larger woofers near the front middle.

When I get my boot floor sorted so I can attach the amp to it, I will then go ahead and fit the 5 ¼” woofers

I will make the templates tomorrow, when I fit the other door card back, to fill all the holes in the door, ready for the sound deadening.


Does anyone know if there is a standard outer diameter for a 6.5” woofer surround?
I ask this as I bought some 6.5” mdf surrounds and some 5 ¼” and have fitted the smaller into the larger, with a recess, like this

5 ¼” OD=145mm ID=125mm
6.5” OD=175mm ID=145mm
I can then remove the smaller rings when I upgrade to 6.5” allowing me to just remove the smaller rings.
I am worried that my new, unknown at the moment, 6.5” woofers maybe too large and mean me having to do more work.

Thanks Alan
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Last edited by BigAl on Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished the other card, yesterday when I only fitted 1 card I could notice that the trebble was not so harsh from that new side



I'm off to fit it now, I am tempted to cut the holes for the rings now lol.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OMG I’m absolutely knackered, I just spent ages hovering after using a jigsaw to cut the plywood for the boot floor. I thought it would only make a little mess, oh no, dust got everywhere, whish I had access to do it outside.
I used some second hand 18mm plywood and cut 2 bases. The first was practise, bit embarrassed about it lol. The second was a bit better, I can’t believe how hard it is to cut a straight line and getting the blade to follow a curve, you should see my circle for the spare wheel lol.
I tried getting my template into the boot and found that 1220mm is about it width wise, whish I did that before searching for 1400mm wide wood, all sizes are 1220, phew.
I’ll take some pics tomorrow. I made a rooky mistake and cut out a bit of my trestle table lol
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the pics of the plywood floor






Very tight fit, not going to do another one Smile
I can now screw down the amps and will get my woody guy to cut the hardboard top.
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JeremyC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That plywood floor is going to cost you at least a tenth of a second to 60!

Smile
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile I was surprised, it doesn't weigh that much, I was also surprised how flat it sits and don’t think I need spacers underneath for the car loom.
I have a few decisions to make, do I really need to keep coolant, oil, screen wash and air pump in the car?
I’d like to keep the fire extinguisher, fuel can and first aid box.
I also cant decide how to finish everything off, should I cover the hardboard cover and sub enclosure off with vinyl, alcantara or paint?
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black_mofo_withmuscle
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats pretty sweet bro, some kiddy said you woz big... are you as big as me?

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