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[quote="Rich B"]thanks Tino, thats answered my query. I'll investigate them a bit more. How quickly would the stiffer shocks start to damage the bodyshell?[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:02 pm
Post subject:
sorry, that was me above
Guest
Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2006 12:57 pm
Post subject:
oops, sorry i should have said 195 50 15
A former 33 driver
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 6:27 pm
Post subject:
BigAl wrote:
Rich B
Try using 195 55 15 wheels and tyres and when the car is being lowered try and get the lower arms to be level with car/ground. Good luck
195 / 50 R15 seem to be the best size. They have a similar outer diameter to the original wheels and there are no probs with the speedo.
Rich B
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:40 pm
Post subject:
Thanks Al - that was some useful information.
My car has the later set up - 3 bolt strut tops (which don't seem to be very common). As I said in my first post, I've got Eibach progressive springs and the Eibach uprated front anti-roll bar fitted which are pretty good, although I've got some crap tyres at the moment (waiting to get my new 15" wheels refurbished, after which we'll have some decent 195 tyres).
Thanks for the advice about the strut brace, coincidentally I bought one last week - nice to know its a worthwhile investment!!
BigAl
Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 12:00 am
Post subject:
Rich B
What 33 do you have the early type or the later type? The earlier type will give a larger - camber when lowered.
There is a difference in the struts. older have metal bearings and newer type have plastic type. It is said that the earlier type metal bearinged ones are better as there stronger. There are also 2 types of shock, one Spica and the other Boge. The difference between the 2 is the internal diameter and the spica are larger and will therefore not fit into the boge strut. Best handeling car iv had was an 1988 (f reg) 1,7 with koni sport (yellow) top adjustables all round, brand new normal bushes H&R springs combined with the earlier metal bearing spica strut with a 65m drop on the front and a 85m drop on the rear ( i had the shocks shortened at front and rear) so the springs dont become dislodged when jacking or doing arial jumps
For handeling try and get the front wheels to sit as far forward as you can to aid in breaking, this can be done by slotting the holes at the front on the front lower arms. Im sure some one can guide you on that. Try using 195 55 15 wheels and tyres and when the car is being lowered try and get the lower arms to be level with car/ground. You can use the bottom spring pans from a sud to get the spring to sit lower and gain a larger drop. Also you can use a combination of powerflex bushes and new solid bushes (not half filled with rubber) again someone can guide you on this, i think its normal on the outside and powerflex on the inside or vice versa.
Also a strut brace does make a difference, iv tried with and without. If you are using the earlier type 33 try and get some strengthing done, as in see if you can use the strengthening from a 16v from bulk head to lower chasis rail.
Good luck
sprintmania
Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 11:12 pm
Post subject:
My Sprint 1,7 QV uses Koni Sport (25%) + bushes Powerflex and goes perfect
sprintmania.
www.sprintmania.com
tvatavuk
Posted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:41 am
Post subject:
I cant predict how long it would last.
Body shell is prone to crackin in front part with usual shocks but it also depends on car history(crashes,driver...).
There were few posts about front rails cracking and reinforcing try to search them here.
Rich B
Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:17 pm
Post subject:
thanks Tino, thats answered my query. I'll investigate them a bit more. How quickly would the stiffer shocks start to damage the bodyshell?
tvatavuk
Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 5:21 pm
Post subject:
If you re serious about last part of sentanced, dont even think about sport shocks.
Koni
Red= uprated normal hardnes shocks
Yellow = Sport hardness
Red on full = Yellow on soft I think?
Rear shocks are straight replacement, bin old ones, fit new ones.
Front are problematic as you noticed, you need to remove original inserts and fit in KONIs. Problem no1 not all original shocks can be fitted with KONIs.
Good thing about all KONIs is that you can repair them (order repair kit). At that point you can even order repair kit for other color, then one you curently have.
Konis have only adjustible rebound, which means 1st hit BUMP will be same no matter how you adjust it.
Rich B
Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 2:36 pm
Post subject: Sports shock absorbers
Hi everyone
I'm investigating getting some sports shock absorbers and wondered what experiences you'd had. I've seen some Koni ones - yellow and red: whats the difference between the yellow and red? I also noticed that the struts require modification to fit these - is this mod easy. Are there any other good sports shocks available?
I'm currently running with standard shocks but Eibach progessive springs and an Eibach uprated anti-roll bar which seems a good set up, but there's always room for improvement. I'm not that bothered about ride quality as my car only does 1500 to 2000 miles a year, I would like the best handling possible without destroying the car structure (chassis rails, strut tops etc)
Thanks
Rich