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[quote="markgp4"]Nice alfas, really like The Sud 8)[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
markgp4
Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2006 1:06 pm
Post subject:
Nice alfas,
really like The Sud
gui67
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:36 pm
Post subject:
Thanks for your advice, I will see what I can do this week end.
Regards
tvatavuk
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:49 pm
Post subject:
Nice pictures, all cars look lovely
Whole P4 in and out looks like new, congrats.
It is in much better condition then my P4 was when I bought it 8y ago.
I don't know if where you live in winter time roads are full of small stones or not. But it would be good to protect rear wheels arch inner side with some tar/rubber layer.
Regards,
gui67
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:29 pm
Post subject:
Here are some pictures of my car, taken last sunday:
And my Sud TI QV:
And finaly my previous 33, 1.5TI Veloce from 1987:
Guillaume
tvatavuk
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 4:32 pm
Post subject:
2 stedee
I know what you mean, but taking into account that I replaced more clutches then rubber dountas on my P4, I would say rubber dounats will survive more then one rough start.
I find whole clutch assembly underdimensioned for relativly high inertia whole 4x4 system has, but I think it was made on purpose not only to save money to carmanufactured but also to save 4x4 system.
2 Guillaume,
I'm glad you now run on 4x4, there was reason why that switch was screwed all way down I only hope it was broken so when mechanic replaced it he forgot to put it up.
gui67
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 10:15 pm
Post subject:
It works OK now.
I am happy it was only the switch and nothing else, more expensive.
The previous owner, an old lady told me that the 4wd was working very good, I wonder since when she was driving only with the front wheel drive.
Guillaume
gui67
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:52 pm
Post subject:
OK, I think it now works.
The light did come off after 2 secs
I looked at the brake switch, one was completely unscrewed, so, like if the pedal was always pressed. I have touched it, an now, I have one click, I try the car and let you know.
Tvatavuk, I will send you an pm, thank you for your help.
Guillaume
tvatavuk
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:25 pm
Post subject:
1. Does 4x4 warrning light come OFF after that 2-3 seconds?
Send my your e-mail in pm I'll send you old version of diy4x4 switch document, plenty of diagrams in it
gui67
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 5:11 pm
Post subject:
Thaénks for you comments.
I went to the MOT one hour ago. The car is in a very good state, but it confirmed what I thought.
The 4wd system doesn't work?
The shaft is here, the light goes on during 2 seconds when I turn the key, but I doesn't hear any click or anything, the rear wheel are not powered, it is like a 2wd car.
I think it is certainly an electrical problem.
What should I check first? do you have a wiring diagram?
Guillaume
stedee
Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 9:27 pm
Post subject:
hi tino
i know you are the main man as far as alfa 33 knowledge but i thought it wouldnt do the vc mounts anygood surely and as we both know that is not good considering it is virtually impossible to get them ,you cant even get the rear gearbox mount anymore.
steve
tvatavuk
Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 9:10 pm
Post subject:
Guillaume,
If buying at least 12 years old car with 4x4 for which you can't buy new parts sounds doesn't sound like mistake I dont know what is.
You sure did made a mistake
Congratulations and welcome to club.
Part called viscous coupling positioned between prop shafts ( black round cylindric shape) transfers anything from 95-5% to 50-50% front to back torque. When there is difference in rotation speed betweeen front and rear prop shaft it viscous fluid in it heats up and hardens, until is is almost solid as a rock. Meaning after a few wheel spins torque from front trasfers to back ie on ICe it will be 50% torque at back.
Steede I wouldn't worrie about propshafts, normal clutch can't handle a lot of clutch droping, it overheats and slips easily. P4 eats clutches for breakfast, expected lifetime on P4 is around 50% of normal 16v alfa.
stedee
Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 4:53 am
Post subject:
i wouldnt start doing hard pull offs with the clutch - you will knacker the 4wd system
gui67
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 8:37 pm
Post subject:
I finnally bought it yesterday.
Thanks for your advises.
I hope I didn't do any mistake.
There is no rust, it drives well, no particullar noise or shudder.
I verified that the Shaft was here, I already eared a story of dsomeone buying a P4 without it.
I could lift the car to see the rubber, but I will do it as soon as possible.
What is the normal reaction of the P4 system, when I realease the clutch fast, the front tires spinn a little, I tought that with the 4 wheel drive it would not happen, or is it because the rear only locks after, when it detects a speed difference between the wheels?
I have read that there is a way to force the 4 wheel drive with a switch, could you explain me how it is possible, or give me a link to a page where it is explained?
Thanks
Guillaume
tvatavuk
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 11:55 am
Post subject:
There is little to add there,
- it should shudder a little when on full lock while turning
- if it shudders a lot and while driving straight it is not good
- there should be propshaft from engine to rear diff, when people are having problems with 4x4 they tend to take it off (in that case 4x4 light will go off, but you will have no shudder on full lock
) efectivly making it FWD car
- rubber dounats can have small cracks in rubber but anything deeper then 1-2mm is to much
Edward
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:43 pm
Post subject:
Guillaume,
Well the very first thing I would check before the 4x4 system every time, is the jacking points. A really good looking car in my mind can be ruined by soft jacking points. I would jack up every corner first to see if the points are soft before checking anywhere else. Probably best to ask first incase you start to push them through the floor. I have done it more times than I care to mention. Give the car a good check on the cills as they can and do go soft. For me it is the condition of the shell - anything mechanical can be fixed - but if it is rusty then that in my mind is a bigger problem.
Someone else should be able to advise you on the drive train, but a good general test is to put it onto hard lock and steer slowly moving forward. All P4's do not like this manouvre but for me it tests the flex in the drive train and gives to an indication of the strength of the donuts that hold the centre v. coupling in place. Check that you can hear the electomagnetic clutch engage and that the 4x4 light goes out.
E.
gui67
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 9:23 am
Post subject: What to check before buying a P4
Hello
My name is Guillaume and I come from France.
I had 1987 Alfa 33 2 years ago, I now own a 1983 Grey Sud TI QV.
I plan on buying a 97 33 permanent 4 next tuesday, iy has 130000km, The owner is an old lady, she says it is running well and is in a good shape without rust.
However, I would like to be sure the transmission is still running fine because i know it is fragile and parts are not easy to find or expensive. Is it a way to check the electromagnetic coupling, if it is still working properly and be sure it won't fail just after some km?
She says there is no vibration or noise , that is a good point, but i would like to be sure.
Could you please help me and give me some tips on what to check and how?
Thanks a lot
Guillaume