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[quote="ed_Cornwall"]No.....no second thoughts as such..... But it does depend on what I can find quite quickly as I do need to get a smallish car back on the road soon for work. I am hopefully looking at one soon....so fingers crossed. It is good to know what I am looking for. BIG THANKS for all your input. It is reassuring to know you guys are out there cheers eib[/quote]
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Author
Message
bobbber
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:44 pm
Post subject:
EXCELLENT English thank you Alan!
Hvala.
Bob
Alan
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:47 pm
Post subject:
Go in front of the car and check through the windscreen if the front seats are in line. Rear fixing points of the seats are on the floorpan and rust just loves them
Open the hood and listen to the engine at around 3000rpm. There should not be any unusual "metal" sounds.
Sorry for my bad english
ed_Cornwall
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:32 pm
Post subject: Thanks for all input so far
No.....no second thoughts as such.....
But it does depend on what I can find quite quickly as I do need to get a smallish car back on the road soon for work.
I am hopefully looking at one soon....so fingers crossed.
It is good to know what I am looking for.
BIG THANKS for all your input.
It is reassuring to know you guys are out there
cheers
eib
lee16v
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:04 pm
Post subject:
Make sure the handbrake is even on both sides. If it's pulling on one wheel more than the other then the adjustment mech is probably gone and you'll be taking the drums off at every MOT to re-adjust.
Having second thoughts now
If you get a good one you'll have a great handling car that'll bring a smile to your face each time you drive it.
Good luck in your search and welcome to the forum by the way!
bobbber
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:39 am
Post subject:
Yeah... that lot too!
Bob
john 33_16v
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:38 am
Post subject:
Hi,
In addition to bobbbers checklist:
1) Steering rack gaitors - hard to see (near bulkhead), but worth checking. If they are torn, you need to get a replacement rack, or have it professionally overhauled. You can't just change the boots, and the rack is an absolute slag to get off/on.
2) Genuine oil filter- The pukka alfa filters have been black for a while, and used to be orange. These engines need a proper filter with a non return valve. Some pattern filters may be ok if they have the valve.
3)a 1993 car probably has the late front struts, which dont have the lower strut pan bearings- you can tell if the strut has 3 nuts on top. If it has 4, its the old type.
4)Front window regulators- make sure windows go up and down without wobbling or dropping. The regs are easy to change and can be got used for about 20 quid. If a window drops moan like the clappers and whack off some money!
5) clutch slave- make sure car goes into 1st and reverse nice and easy- a dragging clutch probably means ther slave is leaking- PIG job!
6)Gearbox- all 33s have poor boxes and if it doesn't bulk a bit on a fast change from 3rd to 2nd it's a very good one!
Hope that helps!
John
bobbber
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:58 am
Post subject:
Hey Ed... welcome to the forum!
I'm sure this has been covered a few times, but here is my 2p :
1. The metric wheels were never fitted to a 1993 Alfa 33.
2. What model is it? You'll probably regret in the future going for something like the IE rather than the 16S.
3. Check for rust
4. Check for rust
5. Then... check for rust. Bottom of the wheel arches, the four jacking points (infront of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels), the sill inner seams under the floor, around the petrol filler tank, the boot floor etc... TAKE A PROPER LOOK UNDERNETH!
6. All the normal things, like the engine sounding ok and no oil burning (blue smoke from the exhaust on startup, although a little from the boxer engine is considered normal), no mayo on the inside of the oil filler cap (which may or may not point to head gasket damage/failure).
7. Check the colour of the oil on the dipstick - if it's really dark this may point to the current owner not changing it frequently enough.
8. Clonking in the steering at full lock (a common problem. Probably broken strut pan bearing(s). Easy fix. Good for bartering!)
9. Milky corners on the windscreen. Quite common, this is where the glass "plys" have come apart. Will result in a new windscreen required after a long time like this.
Points 3, 4, 5 and 6 are the important ones. If rust gets hold of that body, wave it goodbye. The last Alfa 33 I had, I chased the rust around it for 3 years, and finally had to give in!
Good luck!
Bob
ed_Cornwall
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:31 am
Post subject: Check List for buying Alfa 33
Hi All,
First a quick introduction:
I am looking for an Alfa - most probably a 33. My Brothers and Father have always driven Alfas and feel the time has come when I should most probably join them. Always had a soft spot for the old Alfa Suds, but would prefer something a little newer....so considering a 33.
I live down in Cornwall and spend all my non-working time falling out of old sailing dinghies in the Summer and off old trials bikes in the winter.
I mainly hang out on the Classic & Vintage Racing Dinghy Association Forum at
http://www.cvrda.org/
My Question:
I am going to look at a 1993 Alfa 33 soon.
Apart from the normal things.....what specific things should I look out for?
I read on the site about a possible problem with the metric wheel sizes - How do I check this? The car is said to have 'Sticky Yokahamas' on original alfa alloys - Might this be a problem?
Any other advice?
cheers
eib