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[quote="BigAl"]Hey guys, I’m getting the not starting problem again, tapping on the solenoid worked once but no more, wiggled the earth wires for the immobiliser, worked once. I have already stripped the starter motor, checking the brushes and re lubricating the solenoid, but all looked ok, as in no cracks in the magnets. The car has been stationary for 7 months, but started 1st time on demand, not anymore? Any ideas?[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:37 pm
Post subject:
Well I did try to wire in a push to start button connected from the constant live from the large connector for the alfa control, but it didn’t work.
Today, because I was getting fed up with having to connect a wire from the battery to the starter motor, I tested with the live from the cigar lighter to my push to start and it did work.
I thought this is silly and took all the cowling off again and tested the ignition barrel switch.
Last time it didn’t start, I bypassed the alarm by removing the connector to the alarm and connecting the immobilising wires together, which come from the ignition barrel loom and it still didn’t work.
That lead me to think it’s the ignition barrel switch or the wires from the ignition barrel switch loom to the alarm were at fault.
I got nothing when testing the black wire on the car loom side from the ignition barrel connector. So I removed the wire from the alarm and rejoined the black wire from the ignition barrel switch.
Car started!!
Reconnected the wires for the alarm, car didn’t start. Took the block connector off the alarm and connected the wires from the ignition barrel together, as I did last time, the car started!!! Reconnected the alarm, car started!!
Fookin alarm block connector!!
The car again starts as it should, so I removed all the extra wiring, apart from 1 wire from the exciter wire on the starter motor, which has a piggyback connector on it.
How long until it stops working again??
BigAl
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:01 pm
Post subject:
Well it did it again yesterday FFS!!! I had put all the cowling back too.
I can only conclude it’s the ignition switch???
BigAl
Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:52 pm
Post subject:
Wa Frikin Hoo,
Fixed it.
Long story short, it was the 4 block connector off the ignition barrel.
Short story long, the problem had been getting worse, or in my case better, I can’t diagnose an intermittent problem. I waited until it wouldn’t start all the time and just started it via the exciter wire and the battery.
Well done
Dr A. 33 1.5IE wrote:
also make sure thay the wiring that connects the ignition module with the main wiring loom (under the steering wheel) has all in place.
I was going to do a continuity test and test the barrel switch, before that i plugged it back in and tried it, brmmmmm, wahoooo. I don’t know if the block connector from the ignition barrel was loose but I squeezed the spade connectors closer and replaced the block connector and started the car several times before putting everything back together.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:18 pm
Post subject:
I wish it were that simple
The fan has not been working for ages and the non starting problem started before the fan started playing up and is intermittent
Guest
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:02 pm
Post subject:
Maybe it's connected to your fan problem? Best get in there.
BigAl
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:19 pm
Post subject:
Well i am back with the same problem.
Dr A. 33 1.5IE wrote:
If you have already tried to connect a wire from the battery straight to the starter motor and it started then it is not the motor at fault.
Better check the ignition module. It might need replacement (about 30 Euros for a used one) but also make sure thay the wiring that connects the ignition module with the main wiring loom (under the steering wheel) has all in place.
When you are having the problem just wiggle a bit the ignition wires. Maybe one of them is broken.
Best of luck
john 33_16v wrote:
Hi,
I'd just do the mod. It's very straightforward, then problem solved and no hacking your dash to bits- although a start button might be cool.
You just need some suitable cable, relay (mine was an old spotlight one i had kicking about), a few conectors, and a fusable link near to the battery terminal.
John
If it is the ignition module, would doing the sanders mod not work?
No wiggling of any wires cures it now, i have to use + from battery to exciter wire.
BigAl
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:39 pm
Post subject:
hmmmm, I do the + to exciter wire when I cant get it started and it starts no problem.
I had a good wiggle with all the wires today when it wouldn’t start after starting fine first thing. I don’t know if I should temp fate and say it was the exciter wire, I guess I didn’t wiggle it enough.
You wait I’ll be here next week saying it wont start again as I have already done all this in the past, but this time I’m not stripping the starter motor again!!!
Eddie_W
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:55 am
Post subject:
Battery light dimming is not normal . It indicates a very suspect battery or a major resistence somewhere. I would suggest using jumper leads from +tive to starter and _tive to a good connection on the motor. If it starts instantly it is the main leads at fault.
Regards Eddie
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:46 pm
Post subject:
I believe the battery light dimming is normal, as it happens when there is no problem, looks like power is going to where it should but starter motor doesn't activate.
Its been ok since i last used direct connection from + on battery to exciter wire.
Oggie
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:28 pm
Post subject:
Sounds like a short, or severe battery drainage Al.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:38 pm
Post subject:
my bad, i thought you were refering to the earthing points that are on the ser 1 and 2, a load of earthing points in a circle, let me put my reading specs on lol.
I did remove the block connectors and wiggle all the wires before, again no difference.
When the problem happens you can see the battery light dim when I turn the ignition key to start the car.
Boxerbeat
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:41 am
Post subject:
Mine is a series 3. Although the main power supply leads for the starter are diresct from the battery the wire that activates it from the key will be passing trough the main loom and through these connectors.
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 11:16 am
Post subject:
I think those are on the ser 2. Mine has wires going directly from the battery terminals to the engine block earth and to the positive on the starter motor.
I was confident that it was the earth on the engine block the other week because wiggling them cured the non starting, now it doesnt, go figure.
Boxerbeat
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:07 am
Post subject:
Not sure if your wiring loom is the same as on my base model but if it is have you checked the multipin plugs that connect the engine bay loom to the car.
They are located in the battery bulkhead area on the drivers side beside the heater unit, at least on mine thats where they are. I was surprised when I saw these as suds and Sprints never had them. They do look a potential culprit for corrosion and bad connection issues. Might be worth unplugging them, cleaning all the connections applying some WD 40 and reconnect......could be the problem.
BigAl
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 5:59 pm
Post subject:
Well i had the problem again today, i thought, ill just wiggle the wires, but oh no, nothing got her to start, i even borrowed someone to turn the key whilst i gently tapped on the solenoid.
I used a spare piece of wire and connected the + on the battery to the exciter wire on the starter motor, off it went, so deffo not the starter.
I am now scratching my head again as it has worked since.
Maybe i will remove the earthing wires and check the resistance on it then eddie.
Eddie_W
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:51 am
Post subject:
I've had starting probs for ages with the motor turning over too slow if the battery was less than full charge. I buggered around with all sorts of things and in the end, in desperation, I ripped the +tive and -tive main battery leads out of one of my donors and doubled up with the originals. Instant transformation. Without the voltage drop due to resistance in the original leads it spins over like a jappa
Just a suggestion.
Regards Eddie
Boxerbeat
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:53 pm
Post subject:
A little off topic but it is starter motor related. Years ago on a Sud my starter motor packed up, I had a spare in the shed so swapped it out and all was good for a couple of days and than BAM this one packed up also. Two starter motors in the space of a week.....
Any guesses to what caused the problem
BigAl
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:24 pm
Post subject:
rotlpmsl
john 33_16v
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 5:21 pm
Post subject:
BigAl wrote:
oi oi lol
i have some molly and wheel bearing grease to hand lol.
Who's Molly, will she be coming to the next meet?
Oggie
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 3:44 pm
Post subject:
BigAl wrote:
oi oi lol
i have some molly and wheel bearing grease to hand lol.
Now thats just plain filth al!!!
BigAl
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:36 pm
Post subject:
oi oi lol
i have some molly and wheel bearing grease to hand lol.
lee16v
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 12:49 pm
Post subject:
Grease will do it Al or a good dollop of Vaseline is good if you ,ahem, have it to hand.
BigAl
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 11:18 am
Post subject:
Now you don’t think I was secretly asking for help and then pretending that I knew what the problem was are you, shame on you.
The weird thing it that last year when this happened I took off all the earthing wires and sanded them down, I sanded them down so mush that I took the top coating off and they are copper. When I looked at them last week I noticed that the L plate had rusted and the multi point wires have tarnished. I would have thought that when I sanded down the whole lot and then tightened them up that the contact point would not tarnish or corrode as it’s not exposed. I guess I was wrong, should I coat them in grease thit time?
paulhide
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:23 am
Post subject:
C'mon Al - basic stuff
Lucky you've got Dr.33 helping you.
BigAl
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 7:55 pm
Post subject:
Dr 33
well done, you are correct, the earth leads on the engine block clears the problem when wiggled.
Now what prize do you get???