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[quote="BigAl"]I had another play today and used wd40 on the IAV (idle actuator valve) and tried to force it open via the gap. It wouldn't move open but closed ok. When the ignition was turned on there is the expected 12v and you can feel it hum/buz but doesn't close. The manual states that the idle speed should rise when disconnected and if the engine hunts it is faulty. Mine used to hunt but now the rpm rises and idles ok with it not connected, but... with it connected it will not idle now. I think i have caused a score/dent/bump in the metal so it now wont close properly. Could someone please confirm that their working idle valve causes the rpm to rise when disconnected and if when the ignition is turned on the valve closes, thanks[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:54 pm
Post subject:
I had another play today and used wd40 on the IAV (idle actuator valve) and tried to force it open via the gap. It wouldn't move open but closed ok. When the ignition was turned on there is the expected 12v and you can feel it hum/buz but doesn't close.
The manual states that the idle speed should rise when disconnected and if the engine hunts it is faulty. Mine used to hunt but now the rpm rises and idles ok with it not connected, but... with it connected it will not idle now. I think i have caused a score/dent/bump in the metal so it now wont close properly.
Could someone please confirm that their working idle valve causes the rpm to rise when disconnected and if when the ignition is turned on the valve closes, thanks
rsfruitbat
Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:08 am
Post subject:
I am guessing here but my theory would be too much air.
Reason is pressing throttle down will also increase fuel injected.
As car warms up like with a manual choke the revs rise so you reduce the amount of fuel i.e lifting your foot of the accelerator.
Little I know about injection is that any uncontrolled air is a problem.
rsfruitbat
BigAl
Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 11:57 am
Post subject:
Not sure if i should post a new thread for the following question...
Does the IAV (idle actuator valve) have enough compensation if i set up the throttle bodies incorrectly (not enough air on idle) hope that makes sence.
The car will start normally but not when it is very cold?
Leading me to believe that the IAV cant provide enough air when it gets very cold????
BigAl
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:30 pm
Post subject:
need some help here guys. Does mine not start and idle without using a little throttle mean there is too much air or not enough air on start?
BigAl
Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:56 am
Post subject:
Correction guys, the problem I get is I have to keep the key on, keeping the engine turning over, for longer than the usual 5th crank and then sometimes when you release the key it ticks over very slowly and then slowly starts to pick up until normal idle happens. If I press the throttle a little it’s ok, but I don’t want to do this as you shouldn’t have to.
I have looked at my idle valve, it is a little dirty but a clean dirty, if there is such a thing, the rubber seal isn’t air tight, so think it might be this as well, I did get this occasionally in the warm as well.
What do you think?
BigAl
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 9:08 pm
Post subject:
Now its cold I am getting the start then stop problem more often, could it be to too much air now or too little. I think it might be an air leek on the idle valve in the plenum chamber
BigAl
Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:54 pm
Post subject:
Any one?
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 12:02 pm
Post subject: balancing throttle bodies
Hi, I borrowed a synchrometer with 1-30 kg/hr reading.
http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=209
I got the car to running temp and removed the plenum chamber, removed the constant idling actuator, by disconnecting the connector, the lambda probe is not connected and the ecu is set up for 97 ron, as in no cat. I got the following readings.
Front left 1 -1
Rear left 2 -1
Front right 2
Rear right 1 +1
The manual says, page 705 / 01- H 117, to use a flow meter and to make sure the flow falls between 185 - 190 on the N scale, or on the K scale 120 - 130 and that the difference between cylinders does not exceed 25 mmHg from the vacuum outlets.
I don’t have a flow meter so I set mine up to read 2 on the synchrometer.
I invited a fellow Alfa 33 owner, you know who you are, over to do the same to their car. That car is the last of the ser 3's and wouldn’t idle with the lambda probe connected, that’s to be expected and the readings were 1 or below, so we set them up to 1 +1 and I re did mine to the same.
What is N scale, as the synchrometer goes on the throttle bodies and not on the vacuum outlets is this reading comparable and have I set mine up correctly?