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[quote="paulhide"]I can confirm that as is Al's character, when he does something he does it pedantically well. :lol:[/quote]
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Topic review
Author
Message
BigAl
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:38 am
Post subject:
Thanks Paul, i try
I did buy spring loaded ones, but they were crap. I wish i was able to use the clutch and use that wood method
john 33_16v
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:52 pm
Post subject:
Last time i did mine i got some decent new spring loaded circlip pliers which opened by squeezing the handles together- allowed one handed opperation- worth every penny
The 'wood holding the fork' is a great tip too i got from Bobbbers site.
John
paulhide
Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:29 pm
Post subject:
I can confirm that as is Al's character, when he does something he does it pedantically well.
BigAl
Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:45 pm
Post subject:
Yes sir, I did indeed e dee
and on the inside of the "bellhousing???"
JeremyC
Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:10 pm
Post subject:
You did put some copper grease round the outer faces of the new one didn't you?
BigAl
Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:10 pm
Post subject: Clutch slave cylinder replacement
Hey guys, following on from my brake fluid leak, I finally got around to replacing my clutch slave cylinder and thought I’d tell you about it.
1st of all buy a decent pair of circlip pliers with 90 degree angle on them. Mine didn’t open far enough to get the circlip off and I had to use a pair of snipers to modify mine, cutting away at the inside to allow it to open further. This resulted in me getting blisters as I didn’t have a file or course enough sand paper. This was still not enough, so I tried bending out the little tips, SNAP FFS! So I had to bend one of the spare 45 degree replaceable tips to 90 degree and bent the main arm instead of the tip. This was still not enough and when I used them they bent back, I eventually got there but if I had a decent pair in the first place, it would have saved 1/2 a day.
This is if you can't wedge a piece of wood inbetween the fork, due to cylinder completely draining, or if you are by yourself
In the past I have done 2 cylinders on my own 2 ser 2’s and helped Paul with his ser 2.
No joke I could have done both in the time it took to do my 16v, the FPR gets in the way.
If anyone is about to tackle this on their 16v, I know it has been discussed before but I got some tips for you.
If your cylinder is stuck solid like mine was, don’t mess around and take off;
The plenum chamber and bug rubber tube
The oil filler extension tube and rubber tube
The dizzy cap
Finally the distributor.
I know it sounds like a lot, but you will save so much hassle.
With all this removed you can remove the fluid feeder pipe easily and you can hit the cylinder, where the feeder pipe went, with a hammer, going from the distributor towards the cylinder. This will loosen it off as it rotates, then you can tap on it from the bulk head towards the front until it comes out.
Another tip, when removing and replacing the circlip, do it at at least 90 degrees and more “as you look at it from the front”, this allows you access to the “back side” of the circlip.
Finally, when replacing it use a short and long extension, unwind the bleed nipple to as much as you can and put the extensions on the nipple and push it home and then jam the extension on the alternator.
Hop this helps someone out.