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[Hamish Brown]

Having some probs lately with my 1990 33 16v (cat) I did a self diagnosis and it came up with malfunction code 1-2-2-1 meaning that airflow meter is not appropriate to engine RPM and position of idle adjustment switch.
Or short circuit to battery pos pole of air flow meter.
Or short circuit to ground of air flow meter.
Or circuit interrupted. When i first start the car cold in the morning it runs perfect and will run fine the hole time until i stop the engine and restart it something is not resetting or sensing properly and the car idles slow and rough and sometimes stalls and when you accalerate it seems to flood the engine and dies in the ass so you have to drop it back a gear and build the revs up to get going. The other small prob is the brakes are making a reverb sort of sound when braking sort of like theres a crack in one of the disks but theres no feel of it through the peddle or steering or car at all just the noise that has been getting a little bit louder. The disks are not that old but the pads have not got that much left in them to go. Any info from anyone would be much appreciated.

[Lee]

Hi, I had the same problem with my 33 16v airflow meter that you mention, mine was a `90 UK car, and was fine from cold but after about a 20 mile motorway journey would lose power.

I done a temporary fix by getting a cotton bud( the ear cleaning type), and cleaned the airflw meter contacts with circuit board contact cleaner.

This did help but have been told that even Alfa themselves knew of the problem and made a repair kit.

Cured it by buying another secondhand meter for £10 from an Alfa show.

Lee
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`97 155 2.0 16v sport
`91 33 1.7 I.E

[Chris Notsis]

Hamish - Code 1221: HAve you checked to see that all seals and vac hoses/connections are ok? Are the electrical connectors clean and tight? Certainly spraying contact cleaner into the AFM could help - but this is often a temp fix (if there is an improvement after the spraying). IF no fault exists in the AFM, then you woud be looking at replacing the ECU. As for checking the AFM - most faults with these tend to be with the condition of the wiring to and from the unit and the ECU. Identify the earth and ensure this is a-ok. Also, more closely related to Code 1221 is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It has an adjustment range on its mounting. It is possible it has moved. You should see witness marks if this is the case. Also, the wiring connectors for most TPSs can be very fragile with age. Check condition of pins and wires. If you can expose the terminal for the connector, look for corrosion. If so, be prepared to replace the wiring over a length of about 30cm. Wiring and insulation made before 1996 tends to not be 'oxygen free' thus being more prone to corrosion. As for the TPS: Check for 5vdc between Pins 1 and 2 (ign on); check for voltage change between Pins 2 and 3 when throttle moved; check for continuity between Pin 2 of the TPS and Pin6 of the ECU. Again, check condition of wiring.

Brakes: Sounds like the pads are below their min wear limit. If so, then the pistons have possibly tipped over a little in their bores and therefore not fully retracting - thus possibly causing the noise. Replace pads before too late. When looking at the calipers, with pads off, check that the piston face / rim is parallel to the face of the caliper and that it can be pushed back in relatively easily (using a piston compressor of some sort) (NB - remember to remove some fluid from the master cyl).
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Chris Notsis

[Hamish Brown]

Thanks Chris

I will test that TPS tomorrow I thought it might have something to do with that , Had one priced brand new for $110 so if it is that not to pricey anyway. All the connections look ok but havent traced the earth yet. It,s just strange how it,s not there all the time if you start the car and it,s not there it will run perfect all day but as soon as you stop the engine and restart it the car runs crap and will run crap until the car is stopped and restarted later on. But the brakes are fixed now I put in some new pads and the right hand disk was warped so i got a set of those slotted cross drilled ones that Errol was talking about and they work a treat bolted sraight in not a prob, Had to drain some fluid like you said Chris but the pistons pushed out nice and easy. Thanks again for the info people.