Alfa Pages

[bobbber]

I'm thinking about spending some "quality time" restoring my engine bay once the engine is out (what a great time to do it!)

I wondered if ANYONE has any experience of POR15, the paint you can just stick on rust.... and/or their sister product "Metal Ready"?!

Be interested if anyone has tried this on the dreaded rust (metal maggot as one website used to state!) of Alfas!

Bob
_________________
Fiat Bravo 165 Sport

[Rich B]

just ordered some Bobbber! I got it from Frost restoration (www.frost.co.uk) - it wasn't too expensive either. Hopefully it will arrive soon, I'll let you know how I get on.

Also ordered some stuff from Bilt Hamber - It'll be interesting to do a comparison.

I think these products cure rust on most metals apart from that from which Alfa Romeos are made!!!

[bobbber]

That's great news Rich! It was Frosts where I first saw the stuff.

I'm SOOO interested in these products....

I'm going to strip, marine clean, metal ready, POR15, Tie Coat and then Top coat it.... that should last for a while!

You know you can't paint a top coat directly on it right?

Let me know how you get on!

Bob
_________________
Fiat Bravo 165 Sport

[icky]

I used POR15 a few years ago on my 36 Chev. Mainly Black on the suspension and the bits that get gravel rash.

One of the attributes was that it didn't chip or rust, I remember the guy at the shop belting the bejesus out of a painted item with no damage.
From what I remember it flowed well and had a nice Gloss to it.
We ended up using some at work on a couple of roadside cabinets, they still looked good a few years after.

For all of you that have rusty fuel tanks thay also do a tank repair kit that puts a layer on the inside.

Cheers
_________________
Specialization is For Insects

1988 33 1.5 S 8V

[bobbber]

I've heard about these POR fuel tank repair kits icky... and they look very good (especially seeing the 33 fuel tank appears to be a rust magnet )

Did you spray or brush?

Bob
_________________
Fiat Bravo 165 Sport

[lee16v]

I'd be interested in the tank kit as mine resembles an anchor!
Had a quote from Northern Radiators to restore......£195

[john 33_16v]

Hi,

I'm interested in the tank kit too. Do you think the internal treatment could be used with the tank in situe? I'm guessing you'd have to drain the tank, and possibly drain/flush the treatment??

Would like to do this as a preventative measure. The outside of my tank isn't brilliant, but a fresh daub of black waxoyl and spray over of waxoyl every autumn has kept it solid on the outside- gawd only knows how bad the inside is.

I take it AR have run out of tanks?

Cheers,

John
_________________
If it aint broke, fiddle with it until it is!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
93 33 16v Mirtle Met
08 Fiat Grande Punto Exotica Red
90 Yamaha FZR600 Genesis- Silky white/red/blue

[lee16v]

This is the stuff i guess.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8232&frostProductName=Fuel%20Tank%20Sealer%20

Or the kit.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8223&frostProductName=Car%20Tank%20Repair%20Kit

[lee16v]

Ok, I've been looking at that site and I can see how you prepare the inside of the tank as it's a liquid you slosh about but how do you make sure the tank is sealed? By pouring in the sealer and spending the next 24 hrs turning the tank over by hand?

[bobbber]

Sure they won't mind me copying this :

Almost all fuel tanks are dirty and have to be cleaned out before
sealing. It is very diffi cult to see the dirt and contamination
inside the tank, but it’s there. In English, we call this bad stuff
“gum and varnish”, and it’s almost always invisible to the naked
eye. If you try to seal a tank without cleaning it fi rst, the new
coating will probably fail, because tank sealer won’t stick to gum
and varnish. Here’s how to clean out a 25 gallon fuel tank:
1. Mix 1 quart of Marine-Clean with 1 quart of very hot water
and pour it into the tank GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION
SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.
Shake the tank, then place it in a different position every 2 hours
so the solution can cover all inside surfaces. When all surfaces
have been subjected to the cleaning solution, shake it again,
then dump out the tank, rinse it with water, dump out the water,
and start all over again. The fi rst time you dump the solution, it’ll
be very dirty; after the second solution has been discarded, the
tank should be clean. Rinse the tank out with fresh hot water,
drain thoroughly, then pour in the full container of Metal-Ready.
2. With the Metal-Ready in the tank, again shake, then place the
tank in different positions every half hour until the entire inside of
the tank has been treated with Metal-Ready. Then rinse the tank
thoroughly with hot water several times and drain it. In order to
get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air into it for a
long time. No tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The only
way to do this job is to use forced air. TANKS MUST BE COMPLETELY
DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING. THE SEALER
WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.
3. Pour in the entire can of fuel tank sealer and “roll” the tank
around so that all surfaces come in contact with the sealer.
Then drain for at least 30 minutes to ensure that sealer has not
“puddled” in tank. After you’ve done this, dump out the left-over
sealer back into the can, but DON’T PUT THE LID BACK ON
THE CAN TIGHTLY OR IT MAY EXPLODE! Leave the can
open and it will harden overnight. Then throw it out the next day.
Allow 72 - 96 hours for sealer to dry. Air dry tank in a well-ventilated
area. Maximum cure will be reached in 96 hours. Setup
time can be improved by using a low pressure blower or hair
dryer (low or no heat) and circulating it through one hole in tank
and out another.
PATCHING
The best time to add patches on the outside of the tank is when
you have fi nished drying the tank after using Metal Ready, when
the holes in the tank are too big to be sealed by the sealer alone.
Here’s how you do this: Paint the area where the hole is with
POR-15, then place a piece of reinforcing fabric into the paint.
Now paint the cloth outward from the center with more POR-
15. The next day or 5 hours later, paint it again. You have now
sealed the tank from both the inside and the outside.
And remember, whenever you want to seal a tank, you must
use Metal-Ready on the inside and/or the outside, because the
adhesion must be perfect. After the tank is sealed, wait at least
5 days before putting fuel into it.
OLD SEALER
Sometimes you will be asked how to seal a tank that was sealed
years ago with some other sealer that has now failed. In this
case, you must use our paint stripper fi rst to remove that old
sealer, and a gallon of stripper should do it properly. First, pour
in about a quart of stripper and let it work on each inside surface.
It may take 4 strippings to do the job completely. The old fi nish
may come loose in chunks or pieces or strips, so a long tweezertype
tool is helpful for removal. After the stripping job is done,
the tank should be rinsed out with hot water and then cleaned
with Marine-Clean. This is not easy work, but it’s the only way
to do the job right. People who follow our directions perfectly
always get a perfect job, no exceptions. Special care must be
taken to make sure the sealer doesn’t clog up feeder lines or
other tubes inside the tank, and the tank must be propped before
drying so the sealer doesn’t “puddle” in places where it could
cause problems.
WHO USES FUEL TANK SEALER?
People who restore, rebuild, or repair cars, boats, or other
vehicles; companies with fuel storage tanks; non-restoration
people who have fuels tanks in need of repair.
WHAT ARE SOME TYPICAL PROBLEMS REQUIRING NEED
OF SEALER?
A. Tanks may be very rusty inside due to years of non-use.
B. Tanks may have gunk or caked sludge inside, which must
be removed and the tank walls must then be coated.
C. Tanks may have pinhole leaks or leaking seams.
D. Tanks may have a combination of the above.
CAN MY TANK BE TREATED WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE
IT FROM MY CAR?
Usually not. Occasionally a tank will have a small leak on
the bottom which can be treated without removal, but this is the
exception. Proper fuel tank sealing almost always requires tank
removal from the vehicle.
YOU CLAIM US STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER IS “THE
BEST FUEL TANK SEALER MONEY CAN BUY”. WHY IS IT
BETTER THAN THE OTHERS?
It’s better because it seals pinholes and seams far better than
any other sealer and has great intrinsic fi lm strength, which
the others do not have. Its fi lm coating is non-porous, keeping
moisture permanently away from metal, and in this way prevents
future rusting.

DOES US STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER CONTAIN
“RUST INHIBITORS” THAT OTHER SEALERS CLAIM TO
HAVE?
Any chemical can be called a rust inhibitor, since practically
all coatings will stop rust for a short period of time until they
are destroyed by moisture or wear and tear. Some types of oil,
especially fi sh oil, have been known to inhibit rust for a limited
period of time, also. But the only real way to stop rust permanently
is to keep moisture away from metal with a non-porous
coating that will get stronger as it is exposed to moisture. Only
US STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER does this, and that’s
why it’s the best product.
HOW MANY TYPES OF FUEL TANK SEALER ARE THERE?
There are two types of tank sealer other than US STANDARD,
and they are similar to each other in basic structure:
A. PVC type sealer is similar to the adhesive used to seal PVC
pipe as used in waste disposal lines, sewer lines, etc. This
material is white in color, coats well, but doesn’t fi ll holes or
seams well because it has poor fi lm strength and is essentially
an adhesive rather than a coating. It is highly fl ammable and
has strong ketone vapors which are dangerous to people with
heart conditions.
B. PVC-type non-curing sealer is yellow in color and will dissolve
in gasoline containing alcohol and other additives, which
makes it dangerous to use in ANY fuel tank. Adheres well but
never loses its stickiness, and it can easily be scratched off
with your fi ngernail. Contains highly hazardous ketone solvent
M.E.K.
SHOULD I ALWAYS USE A FUEL TANK SEALER AFTER
THOROUGHLY CLEANING OUT MY TANK?
No. Fuel tank sealer should be used as a last resort, and
is not always necessary. Fuel tanks that are rust-free and
have no pinholes or leaks may not need sealing at all. They
should, however, always be kept full of gasoline, which prevents
condensation and further rusting. If vehicles are not used
frequently, fuel tanks should be treated with POR-15 FUEL
PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER, which will keep fuel fresh for
more than two years and insure quick starts even after months
of non-use.
CAN U.S. STANDARD FUEL TANK SEALER BE RE-USED?
No. Used Fuel Tank Sealer should be discarded because it
absorbs moisture from the atmosphere during application and
will not adhere properly a second time.
DANGER: HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED
KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN
CONTAINS PETROLEUM DISTILLATE
COMBUSTIBLE USE ONLY IN WELL VENTILATED AREAS
DO NOT RE-USE SEALER. Let drained sealer dry in open
can, then discard in accordance with local regulations.
Avoid breathing vapors directly from can. Avoid contact with
eyes and skin. Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner to remove
sealer from skin, then wash with soap and water.
STIR WELL BEFORE USING
THIS SEALER CANNOT BE MIXED WITH ANY FUELS.
Please remember these instructions are general guide lines
only and cannot and do not cover every application and
environment. If you remain unsure as how to proceed, please
call toll-free for technical advice at 800-457-6715.
_________________
Fiat Bravo 165 Sport

[icky]

I think I may have started a stampede here...
Wasn't aware that there were so many of us out there with dodgy fuel tanks..

bobbber, I brushed it on. Some of the paints are self levelling and flowed on quite well, leaving a finish that didn't have visible brush strokes.
Also it depended on how light your were with the brush.

Cheers
_________________
Specialization is For Insects

1988 33 1.5 S 8V

[john 33_16v]

Holy Moly, what a procedure for doing the tank- but it all makes sense, and was never going to be a five minute job.

I love the yanks honest attitude to 'elf 'n' safety - ''Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner to remove
sealer from skin, then wash with soap and water. '' Can't imagine seeing that on a tin of Hammerite.

John
_________________
If it aint broke, fiddle with it until it is!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
93 33 16v Mirtle Met
08 Fiat Grande Punto Exotica Red
90 Yamaha FZR600 Genesis- Silky white/red/blue

[bobbber]

Icky... in the UK the 33 fuel tanks literally disppearing under the car is a common thing...

Probably something to do with our weather and salt on the roads etc...

Bob
_________________
Fiat Bravo 165 Sport

[icky]

I think that's why they say to coat the outside with POR15 as well, I think that it's impervious to salts as well as gravel rash.

Steet Machine Magazine in OZ did an article on a fuel tank spruce up with POR15 a while back, both inside and out, I've been trying to find the "how to" article to post a link but they dont have anything online as yet.
The finished shots of the tank, from memory, looked good.
I would say it is well worth the effort.

Don't forget to take pics for the restoration pages

Cheers
_________________
Specialization is For Insects

1988 33 1.5 S 8V

[Rich B]

got me POR 15 yesterday from Frost - very quick delivery, unlike Bilt Hamber who have lost my order and have asked for the details all over again, grrrr.

I'll let you know how I get on with the old rustbucket (and I mean my 145, not my 33!!!)