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Rear demister not working
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 4:50 pm    Post subject: Rear demister not working Reply with quote

I have 14v on the 2 wires when i take them off the connector, as soon as i connect it to the connectors i get nothing. If i leave one wire connected and check the voltage on the wire not connected i get 5v. I have squeezed the connectors together to get a better bite and put them on and off several times.

Any ideas??
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bad earth?
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will probably be the damed connector block under the dash, the same one you had trouble with I think before with your fans, I have had this and bypassing the block solved it.
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33bits
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iain just wrote what i was thinking.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, thanks guys but I don't get it, can you elaborate a little.
There is voltage on the connectors to the rear de-mister when they are not connected to the rear de-mister connections.

Thanks Alan
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you be a bit more specific about which connectors you're talking about?
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try Smile
On the rear window there are 2 copperish male spade connectors either side of the heating element. There are 2 black wires that connect to these spade connectors. If I take the wires off the spade connectors and test for voltage I get 14v “engine running on tick over, battery charging.” When I connect one of the wires to a spade and put the DMM on it and then connect the DMM to the other wire “not connected to the spade on the heating element” I get 5v. As soon as I connect both wires up to the spade connector and test with the DMM on the spade connectors I get 0v.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks in advance
Alan
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Hope that makes sense.


Nah. Not really. Very Happy

So you have the HRW switched on at the dash, the hatch open.

Now tell me exactly what wire is connected to what spade and how you "test for voltage" as you say.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol, ok
now listen very carefully, i will say this only once, not Laughing
Yes to what you have said, with the hatch open, i put the DMM on the spade connectors that are part of the HRW matrix and i get 0v.
If i take off both black wires that connect to the matrix and stick my DMM into both of these connectors i get 14v, so power is getting there.
If i connect 1 of these wires to the HRW matrix spade connector and put one of the probes of my DMM on that and then connect the other probe from the DMM to the wire on other side but not connected to the HRW i get 5v.
Fingers crossed i made sence this time lol.
Thaks
Alan
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDM (digital multi-meter)
HRW (heated rear window)

Al its the connector i tell Ya, I had exactly the same symptoms as your meter reads,cut, solder and insulate the power cable to the window heater as the old plastic cannie handle it anymore captain!!!.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok.... Smile
dont forget i have a ser 3, different wiring??
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know what Im gonna say so, Its just a positive cable to a fuse then to the connector then off to the switch, an earth on the boot lid, the wiring is the same as an s2 , you may have different colour cable and switch and connector but the principle is still the same, put aside your ddm for now and look for a bad connector al, its in there somewhere I would lay a whole £1 bet on it Laughing Laughing Laughing
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol place bets now Laughing
I'll do my best, i hate electrics.
Cheers
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, there's a poor connection somewhere. You measure voltage on the wires when they're disconnected, but this is voltage is all bark and no bite. Due to a (big surprise in an old Alfa) poor connection somewhere creating high resistance, the voltage is unable to drive enough current through the circuit to get your demister very warm.

The poor connection might be a 'bad earth' - one of the two wires you've mentioned earths the demister to the metal of the hatch, and the connection to the hatch could've corroded. To work out which is the earth wire (assuming you can't just trace it and see), unplug both wires, turn the demister switch on and use the DMM to measure between wire 1 and any exposed/unpainted bit of metal on the car body, then between wire 2 and the exposed bit of metal. The wire where you measure 0V is the earth for the demister, and the wire where you measure 12~14V is the one supplying the demister with power.
Turn the demister switch off, change the DMM to the ohms / resistance setting, and measure between the earth wire and your exposed bit of metal. You should measure only a couple of ohms (say between 0 and 2 ohms). If you measure much more than this, you've got a bad earth. Trace wire to where it attaches to the hatch, undo the connection and clean it. After you've confirmed with the DMM that the earth's good, set the DMM back to the volts setting. If there are no problems with your demister circuit, you should measure most of the battery voltage being dropped across the demister (i.e. 12V or more between the spade connectors when the wires are connected and the switch is on).

If you don't have a bad earth, your poor connection is somewhere else e.g. the wiring loom connector plug that Oggie is betting one pound on!
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Ben_nz
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, that was me above. I wasn't logged in and now I can't go back and edit out all my typos. Crying or Very sad
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't the left spade +(12v/14v) and the right spade - (bodywork)?
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, eagle you are correct, i got -14v at first, then swapped so the + was on the left side.
When i can move my car i will investigate further. I will connect teh + to the demister and the other side to an earth on the body. Where is the earthe from the demister btw?
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks eagle,
Come to think of it a while back i took those rubber things off and turned them around, the earth could have come off
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eagle3
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AhA! Very Happy
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, the ones i took off were on the body. I checked the earth which is a 10mm bolt on the tail gate near the earth cable connection to the RWH and used a good earth from the boot light, made no difference.
Sad
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone?
If i have eliminated the earth, that leaves the + part of the circuit or the element?
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Oggie
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

melted connector block!!!!!!.
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john 33_16v
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could run a good 12v supply from the battery or a spare battery direct to the element to eliminate that.

John
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lee16v
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Iain is trying to get a message to you Al! Laughing
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