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tappet oil hole differences

 
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:36 am    Post subject: tappet oil hole differences Reply with quote

Just looking closely at the old and new tappets. I bought INA 034 109 309 for my 33 8v S2.

I see small differences.

For example the oil passage opening with the INA are different. The old ones were not original, I mean they were changed about 2-3 years ago by the previous owner. They have no markings on them, so no idea what they were.

Does anyone have any original tappets to show what the oil passage looks like?

Maybe that is why the old ones failed in my 33 because they were not quite the correct ones. Who knows?




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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one got any old ones hanging around that I could compare the INA with?

Cheers
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Sorry for not responding earlier. Spent the weekend at Le Mans.
OEM tappets look like the one on the right on your photograph.
I personnaly don't think the oil duct shape will make any difference.

Be sure to check the thickness of the lifter. I did measure OEM ones between 19.3mm and 15.9mm (fully compressed). The actual operating range is certainly narrower than that but yours should exhibit more or less the same values.

Besides, be sure to apply some molybdenum disulphide paste around the camshaft lobes when assembling the engines ; this will avoid destruction of the surface of the tappets during break-in.

Please keep us informed how it works.

Regards,
zp.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I personnaly don't think the oil duct shape will make any difference.


I was thinking along the same lines, as long as the oil enters the oil passage without any issues. The one on the right has just a slight conical shape.

I'll try to check the thickness of the lifter.
Are they compressed when new on the packet?

Also not sure if I can get this special paste here. Crying or Very sad

cheers
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Usually they are empty when new. You can compress them with your thumb.
Before installing them in the engine, you shall prime them by immersing them in engine oil then "pumping" on the lifter until they fill and cannot be compressed anymore.
If you do not succeed that way (e.g. they won't fill) another technique is to immerse them in oil, then heat the oil on a stove. The air in the lifters will expand and escape in bubbles through the oil. Let the whole cool down, the lifters will fill with oil.
If you start an engine with empty lifters it will rattle like hell until the oil gets hot. 20 minutes at idle with this awful clacking noise is not something you want to hear.

When reassembling, the lifters may be too full, hence too thick, and the valves might hit the pistons. If this is the case, the valve spring will compress the lifter between the base circle of the cam and the valve. The lifter will slowly leak until the valve is closed. You have to wait till the valves close fully on their seats before reassembling the cylinder heads on the block.

Regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have scared me!

They came in a packet full of oil. I cannot compress them just with my fingers.
I think they came pre-charged. It also says on the packet to store upright...and also when starting the engine run at 3000 rpm for 4 mins then idle for 30 seconds, repeat if necessary.

So I should install the cam, fit the lifters and attach the cam support to the heads, leave them overnight to decompress if they are too full.
So the valve springs will purge any excess oil out?

I have a lot of work on the engine to do after fitting before and after fitting the heads back anyway.

I also plan to prime the engine first, by running it just with the starter motor to get the oil flowing.


Cheers
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Besides, be sure to apply some molybdenum disulphide paste



Liqui Moly anti-friction has molybdenum disulphide. Would this be sufficient? Not sure if I can get paste here.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well found what I needed after searching high and low.

Molykote it's called here. Special paste for reassembling engines.
To put on the cams and faces of the tappets.
molybdenum disulphide based.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Be sure to check the thickness of the lifter. I did measure OEM ones between 19.3mm and 15.9mm (fully compressed). The actual operating range is certainly narrower than that but yours should exhibit more or less the same values.



I measured from the bottom of the face to the top of the valve tappet inside.

Old ones (OE I think) = 20.08mm
New INA replacements = 19.76mm

So almost identical. Was a little tricky measuring them without removing them so these are approx and don't know the degree of compression they are under.

Oil passage same height and width
Width same, well old ones just a tiny bit narrower due to excessive wear.
Height same.

So I feel they should be good replacements.
Do you agree?
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Yes this should be OK.
Be sure to coat the cams with assembly paste.
When starting the engine, wait 3 seconds foir oil pressure to build up then rev the engine to 1500 - 2500 rpm but avoid at all cost letting the engine idling ; this would put a lot of pressure on the camshafts/tappet contact surface and might cause damage. Once the 20 minutes run-in is over, you can let the engine idle normally

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Yes this should be OK.
Be sure to coat the cams with assembly paste.
When starting the engine, wait 3 seconds foir oil pressure to build up then rev the engine to 1500 - 2500 rpm but avoid at all cost letting the engine idling ; this would put a lot of pressure on the camshafts/tappet contact surface and might cause damage. Once the 20 minutes run-in is over, you can let the engine idle normally


Thanks mate.Yes the INA appear to be the same as BGA HL6390 and heard nothing against them.

Got some molykote I will put on the lobes and faces, big end shells also.

I heard it's good to prime the engine with the starter motor first without plugs to pump up some oil. Or can I just do as you suggested, start it up for 3 seconds , watch the oil pressure then floor it to 1500-2500 rpm?

Is this good?

The oil pump was reconditioned with new gears so needs breaking in also.
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ZeNiTh-PbArM
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Yes you can prime the oil circuit before by cranking the engine with the spark plugs removed.
If you are going to test a new oil pump, be sure to also grease the drive gear (and worm gear on the crankshaft) with the assembly paste. The inner gears of the pump should be trouble-free.

regards,
zp
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the tips. yes I put the paste on the new gears, I'll also put it on the drive gear.


Very Happy Very Happy
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