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Running in engine

 
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RBL
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 30 Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Location: Leicestershire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 5:25 pm    Post subject: Running in engine Reply with quote

I've rebuilt my engine (8v 1.7) with everything other than new pistons and hydraulic tappets.

What's the best way to run it in? I've read a few different theories. In my ignorance I've already started it a few times to check everything and get it up to temperature and do the timing. However before I go any further I think I need to run it at 2,500 to 4000rpm for 15 minutes to properly bed in the piston rings.

Is this correct? Anyone have any definative ways of doing it? (I want to do it this weekend because a mechanic is coming round on Tuesday to properly balance the carbs and tune it.)

Thanks, Rich
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Ian M
Green Cloverleaf


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 911
Location: Bath Somerset

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just running it gently to tune wont hurt it but to run it in properly I would suggest you need to do about 500 miles at no more than about 3500rpm.
Thats how I do it anyway
Ian
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ChrisC
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 13 Mar 2003
Posts: 152
Location: Frome

PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:01 am    Post subject: erp Reply with quote

has it actually been rebored or just new rings?
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Bellamachinna
Alfa 33


Joined: 12 May 2003
Posts: 352
Location: Lisbon-Portugal

PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi... Very Happy
In my opinion, in the first 1000 Km`s, you should run it gently avoiding to go above 3500 Rpm. Keep always an correct gear ratio for each ocasion, to avoid forcing the engine to pick up from low revs.
After this 1000 kmīs, and till the 3000 km`s you should start using 4500/5000 revs, keeping always the correct gear ratio. During this part, you can start to push it a bit (never till the red line, and never in first gear), to ensure that you dont get an "lazy" engine.
For me the runing in period is divided in two parts:
-Till 1000 Km`s (beding)
-After 1000 km`s, and till 3000Km`s (freeing)
After the 3000 km`s, change oil and filter and "PEDAL TO THE METAL"
Hope this helps
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alexj
Alfasud


Joined: 25 Mar 2003
Posts: 66
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do people think of this page....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Quote:

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !


The guy explains his theory about how piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about and how to best obtain that piston ring seal. Then after explaining his theory why to break in the engine fast rather than too easy, he goes into some questions and answers:

Quote:

Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!


He then goes on to make some interesting points about oils...

Quote:

Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!

Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...


Note the 20 miles... quite a lot less than most would run before the first oil change!!! Then he warns against synthetic oil (until after fully broken in). I think this is reasonably well accepted these days so not so controversial as the rest of his article.

Quote:
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.


So what do you guys think... is he a heroic visionary, a charlatan, a madman, a fool... or a combination of all four Question
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gritsop
Green Cloverleaf


Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Posts: 766
Location: Ekali, Athens - Greece

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

His advice sounds OK with good arguments but I would prefer to follow the workshop manual since it has been written by the mechanics that actually built the motor and their knowledge is applied on it.

Just my opinion.

Regards
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Bellamachinna
Alfa 33


Joined: 12 May 2003
Posts: 352
Location: Lisbon-Portugal

PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2005 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi... Very Happy
Quote:
So what do you guys think... is he a heroic visionary, a charlatan, a madman, a fool... or a combination of all four

In my opinion, he is a combination of all...
He has some reason, when saying that running in, the hard way gives a more responsive engine.
He is also correct, when says that you should get the engine to working temperature before you start using it...BUT THIS APLIES ALWAYS...
As i wrote before, i also believe that you should push it a bit, BUT only after the first 1000 Kmīs, and never all the way till the red line.
On the oil subject, i agree and disagree with that guy...Iīll explain...
I agree that the sonner you change oil, the better, to flush all metal deposits and eventual acid contaminations, BUT not using synthetic oil is going against all my believes.
You should use the oil, that you intend to use during the life of the engine.
When you are bedding an engine the oil should be an crucial part, just like any other metal part of the engine. Apart that synthetic oils resist better to acid contamination, they also are thinner when engine is cold. That improves the flow and pressure of the oil during cold starts, and gives better protection against wear. If you put a thicker oil during the run in period, the oil pump will have to work harder, and the wear will be much more evident. If after the run in period, you put a thinner oil, the wear caused by the thicker oil, will give you an "drinking oil" engine. This will be very evident, especially on the tappets.
In my opinion, that guy is right in some points, BUT not all points...
As he wrote:
Quote:
Warning:
This is a very controversial topic !!

All the best
J.Oliveira
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

taken from 'four stroke performance tuning 2nd ed - by Graham Bell'
The initial bed-in of rings is acheived by giving the car a full throttle burst for a few seconds, followed by snapping the throttle shut and coasting for a few more seconds. This should be repeated at least 12-15 times with the engine at normal operating tempreture. Accelerate the vehicle in top gear from the slowest speed it will pull in that gear. By givving the engine full power, the high gas pressure forces the rings out against the bore wall. snapping the throttle shut causes a vacuum in the cylinder, which draws up extra oil. This and low engine speed minimises the risk of glazing and allows the ring to face and cylinder wall to cool. After the rings a initially bed in, the engine can be opperated at up to 80% of rev/power potential, but constantly vary the speed. If this is not done, the rings may still glaze. After about half an hour of this on the dyno or the race circut, the rings can be considerd run in. A road engine with crome rings should be run in for about 200 mile, prefferably in one session. Again, constantly vary the enginespeed and include heavy acceleration for short bursts as for initial bedding in. avoid constant high speed untill the engine has done 500-700 miles. good luck with the new engine!

ps. change the oil after 50km or so as most of the intial wear occours in this period - dont leave it till 3000km.
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
they also are thinner when engine is cold. That improves the flow and pressure of the oil during cold starts, and gives better protection against wear
IMHO this is not allways true - using too thin an oil is as bad as too thick - too thin and it will not stay where it should ... best to use close to the recomended viscosity in a synthetic
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies guys. You can see the reason for my question - there are many theories!

(Chris. The cylinders have been honed but not rebored.)

Thanks Alexj, I've read this site: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and it makes most sense but is contravercial and goes against owners manual instructions. It is similar to what the previous person (guest) has said in that high pressure is needed to force the rings out. Otherwise, with gentle running, they will never be properly bed it and carbon deposits will build up and you'll lose some HP.
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RBL
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 30 Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Location: Leicestershire

PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, that was me (forgot to login)

Thanks for the replies, Rich
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Bellamachinna
Alfa 33


Joined: 12 May 2003
Posts: 352
Location: Lisbon-Portugal

PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2005 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Very Happy
Quote:
Otherwise, with gentle running, they will never be properly bed it and carbon deposits will build up and you'll lose some HP.

This will be the case if all that is done is an gentle run in...
Quote:
As i wrote before, i also believe that you should push it a bit, BUT only after the first 1000 Kmīs

When i wrote this, i meant exactly this:
Quote:
, constantly vary the enginespeed and include heavy acceleration for short bursts as for initial bedding in. avoid constant high speed untill the engine has done 500-700 miles. good luck with the new engine!

Quote:
IMHO this is not allways true - using too thin an oil is as bad as too thick - too thin and it will not stay where it should ... best to use close to the recomended viscosity in a synthetic

In this case i also wrote:
Quote:
You should use the oil, that you intend to use during the life of the engine.

The guy in http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmsays this:
Quote:
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.

Quote:
Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??
A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period

You should run in your engine with the oil you want to use for the rest of his working life...You should avoid changing from oil brand to another with diferent viscosity, specifications...
The oil for the run in period should be the same that you use always (if you intend to use your car with Castrol GTX- thats up to you)
I personally use Selenia 20K, and if i was runinig in my engine, i would use it ALWAYS.
Hope this helps
J.Oliveira
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James Granger
Alfa 33


Joined: 10 Apr 2003
Posts: 302

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alexj wrote:
What do people think of this page....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



A friend of mine tried this running in procedure on his brand new GT Coupe 3.2 V6 (in fact he showed me the same webpage). It worked wonders. Wink
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RBL
Alfa Sprint


Joined: 30 Mar 2003
Posts: 162
Location: Leicestershire

PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks James, I think that is what I'll do.

Had it crypton tuned yesterday. I'd done it myself and it was 15degress advanced - no wonder it didn't sound good! He's done it properly now and the emmisions is 2.9% HC at idle. (He said 3.4% was the maximum allowed at the test). I won't run it now till it's ready for the road (a couple of weeks) then I'll try those break in proceedures.

I'll let you know how it goes.
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