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BigAl P4
Joined: 06 May 2003 Posts: 2992 Location: U.K Surrey
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 6:48 pm Post subject: what bits need doing to your car? |
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Hey guys, after a long time not using my car a few things need to be sorted.
Passenger door lock mechanism has come away around the 3 allen key bolts. The metal has cracked all the way around, any suggestions? Would washer help? Not sure if this could be welded.
Knocking coming from front of car, think top mounts need changing, I am going to get solid top mounts so this problem will never arise again. These are the same price as original alfa ones, its possible lower ball joints need doing as well, if so I will drill them out and replace, instead of changing whole arm.
How’s everyone else’s cars? Any little niggles or stuff that need doing. _________________ x2 33 16v
pictures http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5203 |
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BigAl P4
Joined: 06 May 2003 Posts: 2992 Location: U.K Surrey
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Door will not close, i have put the seat belt around the handle, pushed the seat all the way forward and clicked it in place. central locking is always on, if you open the drivers door, the central locking locks it again.
Man, what next??? _________________ x2 33 16v
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john 33_16v 16 Valve
Joined: 27 May 2005 Posts: 1406 Location: herts, uk
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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You've got it running then i guess? - Cool.
Could the door lock be down to the shunt you had towing? Is it the lock that's cracked or the actual b post metal?
Did u get my old cat fitted into your exhaust in the end- if so how are emmissions??
My 33 is an absolute pleasure to drive now with it's 'new' gearbox. Just need to respray the spoiler, taking more time and effort than last time, fit the brake cylinder mod bracket from JohnBoy, and possibly fit the supersprint backbox i got at 'nad/autoitalia', so that should see me to about Christmas all being well.
John _________________ If it aint broke, fiddle with it until it is!
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
93 33 16v Mirtle Met
08 Fiat Grande Punto Exotica Red
90 Yamaha FZR600 Genesis- Silky white/red/blue |
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BigAl P4
Joined: 06 May 2003 Posts: 2992 Location: U.K Surrey
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Hey John
I don’t think the towing incident had anything to do with the door as there was no physical contact, just the towing bar being pulled off of pats car as he went in a different direction to me.
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Passenger door lock mechanism has come away around the 3 allen key bolts. The metal has cracked all the way around |
It’s the mechanism on the door itself, the b post is fine, it’s as if someone has cut around all 3 allen key bolts so the bolts have nothing to bite into and the lock just floats around.
I think its metal fatigue, I was thinking of using a large headed bolt with a big washer and possibly weld the washer in place so the lock cant move, but its all very close to the lock and there’s not much gap in there.
I was waiting for my cam belt pulleys, so I could change them and check the timing at the same time, when the belt went. I was then going to get an emission check again and get your modified to fit, so if it didn’t pass I could put yours on and check again. Needless to say I didn’t get the chance to.
Now mine is running again I will get my exhaust finished, they didn’t do the part from the manifold to the front of the cat, also I am not happy with the way they affixed the back box. They used a bolt which rattles loos every week.
I think I will do a gearbox oil change as I have run it with it not filled to the brim. A smooth gearbox makes a world of difference, you can drive faster as you don’t have to wait to change gear, unless you want a crunch!!
Get out there and put the brake mod on, along with the back box, what are you waiting for christmas??? _________________ x2 33 16v
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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:59 am Post subject: |
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I had the drivers door on my grey 1.5 crack as you describe. I got some rust repair chap to weld in a new piece of metal in place of that area of the door, and re-mount the catch to that. He worried that if he tried to weld the cracked section of factory metal with the door catch in place, the heat would melt the nylon/plastic bits in the lock mechanism. The door's OK now although it has to be shut firmly, because the catch is now a millimetre or so too far out. I'm very gentle when shutting Alfa doors because I know fatigue cracks get them in the end.
What else needs to be done on my cars?
Black car:
* Continue reassembly after recent accident
* Replace radiator fan switch (terminal broke off, cooling fan can't run)
* Sort wheel balancing and wheel alignment
* Find a way to permanently fix speedo (seems to be loose connection at the rear window demister switch?)
* fix rear window demister
* fix leak around rear window wiper
* determine whether thermostat is starting to fail
* deal to non-essential stuff, like upgrading heads for more performance, and replacing sick clutch slave cylinder
Grey car:
* Urgently fix mysterious grinding from left front wheel when turning right
* Replace strut pan bearings
* If left front suspension is still squeaking and rattling after this, drive car off cliff
* wheel alignment
* Fix leaks around front and rear windscreens
* fix chip in windscreen
* fix drivers door so its lock can be used to lock the car
* realign dash so fan can be used on 'high'
* sort Alfa Control so it doesn't report visibility lights are blown when they're not
* determine cause of overheating problems last track day
* experiment with / seek advice on remaining driveability problems - random slight stuttering/missing as throttle is depressed, lack of torque, clutch that barely disengages and judders quite a bit
* repaint in red over grey! (as if I'm ever gonna get this far)
Then take both cars to a track day, promoting them as the feared Alfa Team, and bring the fight to my friend's modified 206GTi. _________________ "Now, all that is left to do ... is wait that something else brokens, to fix up again!" |
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BigAl P4
Joined: 06 May 2003 Posts: 2992 Location: U.K Surrey
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
If left front suspension is still squeaking and rattling after this, drive car off cliff
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Im glad im not the only one with things to do, good luck with it all. _________________ x2 33 16v
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paulhide P4
Joined: 20 Dec 2003 Posts: 1607 Location: Oh Beautiful Billingham
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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Here's my list (pretty sparse!!)
P4 -
sort out sunroof leak,
replace heater matrix (fun)
sort out a bit of bubbling at bottom of wings
White S2 1.7 -
NOTHING AT ALL at moment!!!
Red TI -
sort out interior fan switch which hardly switches off then keeps switching itself on
Green 16v-
Needs some rust sorting out at bottom of drivers door
Champagne S2 1.7
250 quids worth of welding
carb tune
weak rear n/s brake
Red 16v, Grey P4, White S2 1.7
Continue to strip and break. _________________ Owner's Club 33 Registrar. Now from P4 & S2 1.7 QV
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BigAl P4
Joined: 06 May 2003 Posts: 2992 Location: U.K Surrey
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:26 am Post subject: |
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ok, heres mine
Electrical
wire loom for front lights
replace rubber cover on coil HT lead
rear window heater switch
sort out dashboard white dials
Interior
affix loose gear knob
fix boot release again
fix spare bonnet release cable
Engine bay
front engine mount
side engine stabiliser
passenger cam belt cover and bolts
o/s cam shaft oil seal
magnet for power steering fluid
oil drain plug with magnet £5.12
fix rattling manifold heat shield
starter motor
oil drain plug with magnet £5.12
change header tank, after cleaning it
lower arm trackball joints
top mounts
Body work
rear window bonding
drivers mirror cable
driver mirror glass
boot drain plug
rear shock squeak
n/s front door lock
temporally repair bumper
ns/ wheel arch trim _________________ x2 33 16v
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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:11 am Post subject: |
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Paulhide, dude, your fleet is totally 3 times the size of mine! How do you manage to keep so many cars running at once?
Big Al, I see you cheating, putting "oil drain plug with magnet £5.12" down twice so it looks like you have more work to do.
I've been looking through wiring diagrams trying to find out why I can cause my black car's speedo to cut in and out using the rear window demister switch. The closest wiring diagram I have (for a series 1 33) lists the "Electronic rev. counter" and "Electronic tachometer" as different items.
Suspiciously, the first is connected to the "tachymetric control unit" but the second connects to the "Odometer pulse generator".
If this weren't typical enough, rendering/display errors make the diagram useless by obscuring critical markings anyway. *sigh* _________________ "Now, all that is left to do ... is wait that something else brokens, to fix up again!" |
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Admin Site Admin
Joined: 19 Feb 2003 Posts: 1223 Location: Stafford, UK
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:58 am Post subject: |
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Hi
For the P4:-
Look at steering rack
Clean up bottom of drivers door.
For the 1.3
Get the distributor out and put in another (think that is why is randomly has no spark)
Change oil
Finish doing rear brake shoes.
All the best
Keith _________________ I owe, I owe, its off to work we go.
Bimota Forum
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Oggie Green Cloverleaf
Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 811 Location: Whitehill
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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I guess mine needs 1. car park dings taken out of driver and passenger doors. 2. strip out the interior 3. fit a roll cage 4. find a suitable wide arch kit. 5. get rid of glass and place perspex .6. find some 3 piece split rim 5 spoke revolution style wheels.(by this time the wife might of walked) 7. more welding by this time. 8.fit some power flex bushes .9 . fit some class f race spring with height adjustable shocks.10 race it. 11. wash it. oh and none of these are in any particular order. _________________ PHAT 33 |
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