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[Alfa Racer]

Anyone know what the timing belt change intervals are on a 1994 1.7 IE 8V and whether it's a DIY job, any guidance on how to do it would also be gratefully received including any special tools required?

[john 33_16v]

Alfa probably originally quoted 48k or 5 years.

Consensus on 16v belts is generally 3 years or 36k.

The 8v ones are much more straightforward than 16v as obviously only 2 camshafts. A diy job for a competant home mechanic.

John
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If it aint broke, fiddle with it until it is!
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93 33 16v Mirtle Met
08 Fiat Grande Punto Exotica Red
90 Yamaha FZR600 Genesis- Silky white/red/blue

[RFlower]

I change my 8V timing belts at 80,000km (50,000 miles), not had any problem so far - touch wood. Also immediately I get a "new" car, regardless of what I've been told.
The Trofeo I just bought has very low mileage (80K km) and came with a 1997 bill from a "specialist" here for changing belts and tensioners at 34K km. The tensioners were not a pair, one had flats on it, and the belts were slack.
You should also consider replacing the tensioner pulley assemblies if you have any doubts about them, and probably replace them every second belt change.
It is a straightforward job, the grille and radiator have to be removed, and removing the bonnet helps also, although my latest car's bonnet seems to be bonded to the hinges and I couldn't remove it without damaging something.
You should definitely read the manual before and whilst doing the job, as it is very important to have the crankshaft in the correct position at various stages to avoid the pistons hitting the valves.
Manuals are available here http://www.alfaromeo33.extra.hu/
I downloaded and saved them all, they may not be there forever.
It is also worth checking the water pump while changing the belts, while access to it is easy. If any signs of water leakage, loose or noisy bearing you should replace it.
It pulls out of the block and is usually stuck solid. There is no room to get a puller on it without removing the engine, and it is sometimes impossible to remove without destroying it.
I removed one really stubborn one after an hour or two by soaking the join frequently with WD40, gripping the body with a large pipe wrench, and turning it very small amounts back and forth while pulling outwards until it finally moved.
It wasn't much good when it finally came out. I cleaned the bore where it fits and larded the outside of the new one with grease when I fitted it.
I am sure water pump life is extended if you use a really good inhibited antifreeze mixture. I use the VW one for all my vehicles, it's not cheap but it is "permanent".
Good luck.
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Dick Flower, Nr. Carcassonne. '94 Trofeo 1.4 ie (F), '93 Imola 1.3/1.4 ie (now for breaking) (F), '91 1.7 ie (GB)(spare car), '86 Sprint 1.5 QV (F). '87 VW Syncro camper (F), '73 NSU Ro80 (F), '99 Fiat Seicento (F)

[Alfa Racer]

[RFlower]

No special tools needed to change the cambelts, but do it exactly as per the manual. I also turn the engine over by hand a few times after fitting the new belts to make sure they find their running position before final tensioning.

You need to hold the RH camwheel to prevent it turning due to vave spring pressure on the cam when you're changing the belts. I put a suitable spanner on the nut and block it in position with a bit of wood.

The engine does not have to come out to remove the water pump, but if you're taking it out anyway that's the time to do the pump (if it is necessary to change it). You might be lucky and find it comes out easily
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Dick Flower, Nr. Carcassonne. '94 Trofeo 1.4 ie (F), '93 Imola 1.3/1.4 ie (now for breaking) (F), '91 1.7 ie (GB)(spare car), '86 Sprint 1.5 QV (F). '87 VW Syncro camper (F), '73 NSU Ro80 (F), '99 Fiat Seicento (F)

[Admin]

Hi

Manuals should be fairly easy. Most of them are ones I scanned!

Changing the belts is not difficult. However look at the later manuals as the early 33 manuals show the mechanical tappets which have different ways of checking the cams are in the right position.

All the best

Keith
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