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Alfa Pages A forum for help with the Alfasud And Alfa 33 |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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Bellamachinna Alfa 33
Joined: 12 May 2003 Posts: 352 Location: Lisbon-Portugal
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Hi...
It´s not a simple question...
To check the timing, you will have to take your car front end out... (As if, you were to change the cambelts). Start by taking the hood out, remove the front grille, raditator fan and radiator...
Then remove the belts for the water pump/alternator, power steering, and a/c (if your car is eqquiped with these). Remove the timing belt covers. Now you can see the cambelts.
Next you will have to rotate the crankshaft until the cylinder Nº1 is at TDC.-To do this, remove the plastic cover, next to the distributor to see the markings on the flywheel (AHH i forgot ; you also have to take the plugs out, and the distributor cap). Put your car in 2nd gear and push it gently, till the mark T is aligned with the small triangle. When this is done, the rotor arm, will be pointing to cylinder nº1 (Right bank, front one).
Now take a look at the cam pulleys. If all is ok, the markings, on them will also be aligned. (T marks, on the pulleys) .
If the timing is not correct, you will have to proceed as if you were to change your cambelts. Now, here starts the dificult part . If you are not very gifted with your hands, you should stop here, reassemble all back on your car and go to an trusted mechanic.
Hope this helps
J.Oliveira |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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Hi!
Well, it sounds pretty easy, but even though I only have 2 thumbs (instead of 10) on my hands, I think I'll let a mechanic take a look at it next week..
But thanks for the instructions!
Regards, _________________ Alfa 33 1.7 16v '88 QV
http://www.bilgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2498 |
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Bellamachinna Alfa 33
Joined: 12 May 2003 Posts: 352 Location: Lisbon-Portugal
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2005 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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If you are not very gifted with your hands, you should stop here, reassemble all back on your car and go to an trusted mechanic. |
Sorry , i sould have noticed that your car is an series 2 with an 16v conversion. So your ability is not in question...
Take care, and good luck |
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ste dee Guest
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:52 am Post subject: interesting reading |
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i ve got the same problem slightly different( ecu and cat model)
my 33 doesnt like starting when warm if ihave drove the car for a bit and then stop for an hour or so it stutters like crazy and pops and all sorts once it has run for a bit it settles down, im going to try messing with the throttle sensor
thanx |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 9:09 am Post subject: |
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Yesterday I tried changing the TPS, AFM and the ECU..Nothing happened!! I'm afraid, that the next step will be fitting a lambda probe and 8 new lifters at cylinder 1 and 3... And if that doesn't work either, I think I'll have to change some injectors. _________________ Alfa 33 1.7 16v '88 QV
http://www.bilgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2498 |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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By the way, is it possible to mount the flywheel in a wrong position, so that it looks like the timing is correct but isn't because the cylinders dont match with the flywheel??
And is it possible to the adjust the ignition just by removing the distributor-cap and move the little stick inside..?
Just a few more things I'll check before dissambling the engine..again! _________________ Alfa 33 1.7 16v '88 QV
http://www.bilgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2498 |
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Bellamachinna Alfa 33
Joined: 12 May 2003 Posts: 352 Location: Lisbon-Portugal
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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Hi ...
Sorry to hear about your problems
Have you checked the Rpm/timing sensor? It´s located between the engine/gearbox (on the flywheel), in the left side... It is worth to have a look, because your next step, will be disassemblig the engine...
Also before changing injectors, you can measure their resistance with an multimeter (14/18 ohms)
Quote: |
By the way, is it possible to mount the flywheel in a wrong position, so that it looks like the timing is correct but isn't because the cylinders dont match with the flywheel??
And is it possible to the adjust the ignition just by removing the distributor-cap and move the little stick inside..? |
For this, i dont really know...However i had an 1.5 TI (Series 2-double carburettor), that i bought without distributor...The car was fitted originally with Magnetti-Marelli coil and had remains of an Marelli distributor...The only parts that i managed to get were Bosch distributors, so i also changed the coil with an Bosch unit...After several hours of work, the car didn´t started... It backfired, through the induction. The air filter box literally exploded (The cover went 2/3 metres into the air)
Time to scratch my head, and to double check all the wiring to the coil (the connectors are different between Bosch & Marelli units)...All was OK, so it had to be the timing; Instead of 1-3-2-4, it was firing with 180º diference (something like 2-4-1-3).
The solution was to remove the distributor and rotate him 180º... The car started first time . However i believe that the ignition avance can not be regulated on the Motronic ... So if your car had the flywheel in a wrong position, i believe that it wouldn´t even started... (NOT SURE).. |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
I suppose that if the RPM-sensor was broken, the engine would run bad at all RPM. But it’s worth a check...
I've just checked the ignition, but to me it seems like the firing order is 2-1-3-4...But I think I will mention it to my mechanic and let him do the job!
Btw. can you (or anyone else) tell me where the different cylinders are placed? I've always thought, that 1 & 3 were on the LH (from inside the car) and 2 & 4 on the RH. But according to different topics I've been reading lately, it's seems like there is a bit of confusion about this...
While reading topics about this, it appeared that some have experienced wrong oil causing the noisy tappets (which I still see as the most likely reason for my rough running engine). But even if the oil was wrong, I suppose that the cams would still push the tappets and force them to open the valves completely, wouldn’t they!? Or have I misunderstood the way the tappets work..?
Regards Mads _________________ Alfa 33 1.7 16v '88 QV
http://www.bilgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=2498 |
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Maze123 Alfasud
Joined: 26 Mar 2003 Posts: 73 Location: Denmark
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LDA Alfa 33
Joined: 28 Nov 2004 Posts: 276 Location: France
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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doh!
could be a head gasket. i had a 1.5 s2 twin carb, with a blown gasket. it popped and banged all over the place.
get a compression test. cheap and fast way to check if there is a problem.
does the overflow water tank have oil in the water? this is another sign that there could be a blown gasket. (but best to get a compression test to make sure)
there is a way to get the error codes (sorry i cant remember how for the 33) from the ecu. this will tell you if something like the o2 (lambada) sensor is dead or any other part of the system. do a search as i know this has been covered before. 'error codes' or simething like that should turn up what you need.
good luck!
L. _________________ A good workman allways blames his sh*t tools. |
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johnboy 16 Valve
Joined: 26 Jun 2003 Posts: 1061 Location: margate U.K
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Maze123 wrote: |
As for the oil subject - I forgot to mention, that there is a lot (!!) of mayo in the oil-filler tube... |
Hi there
i had the same in mine when i did my oil change but its ok if your car doesnt use water or run hot. they all do it
regards john _________________ WODA WE NEED? MORE POWER!!
Alfa gt jtdm blackline
1990 S2 16v veloce sleeping!
2002 ts gtv the wifes now
1997 seadoo gsx 800
1999 freestyle superjet |
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Guest
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hi...
The firing order is 1-3-2-4. (Cylinder nº 1-Front right / Cylinder nº2-Front left / Cylinder nº3-Back right / Cylinder nº 4-Back left)--This from the inside of the car.
As for the mayo in the oil filler tube, this is quite normal (not nice to see but normal). This usually happens when car doesnt get propperlly heated, used for short distance runs, and not a problem if the car doesn´t drink oil.
Quote: |
While reading topics about this, it appeared that some have experienced wrong oil causing the noisy tappets (which I still see as the most likely reason for my rough running engine). But even if the oil was wrong, I suppose that the cams would still push the tappets and force them to open the valves completely, wouldn’t they!? Or have I misunderstood the way the tappets work..? |
Well, the noisy tappets, can be caused by wrong type of oil ...In teory, the cams should push the tappets (and they do), but if you have an wrong oil, added with some wear, the tappets will start "tlac-tlac-tlacking". I, personally use SELENIA 20K on my 16v, that is the oil used by alfa dealers...
But on my previous 33 i used CASTROL GTX3, to reduce the noise from the tappets, and oil comsumption...When using AGIP SINT 2000, the car used to drink 2 litres in 1000 Km- After changing, to GTX3, the consumption was reduced to a more resonable 0,5 litres/1000Km.
You can try to put a thicker oil in your engine, to see if it improves...
I dont like to constantly change from oil brands/viscosity. Diferent brands, used different "aditivs"(dont know correct word) . One oil, with a more "cleaner action", used in an engine with some years/wear, can cause even more wear.
Hope this helps |
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Bellamachinna Alfa 33
Joined: 12 May 2003 Posts: 352 Location: Lisbon-Portugal
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry
That was me... Forgot to Log in
Regards
J.Oliveira |
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