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How do I increase idling speed?
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RFlower
Alfa 33


Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brit01 wrote:
Now I'm confusing myself.

Ok so which cable does the ignition timing light attach to?


No. 1 - the cable going to the right front cylinder looking from the DRIVE END (drivers seat if you like)
1 = R front, 2= L front, 3 = R rear, 4 = L rear

It is irrelevant that the distributor may be in a non standard position

Brit01 wrote:
Maybe I've been attaching it to 4 so no visible marks on the flywheel!!!

Rolling Eyes


That sounds a likely reason. Didn't occur to me you could be using the wrong connection. Better get a manual! Wink
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no manual needed Smile look at the dizzy cap, normally it would be lined up so as to point to the cylinders, like a square.

Bottom left goes to front left cylinder
top left dizzy goes to back left cylinder
then the other to just get swapped around, as in crossed over.

My dizzy is rotated clockwise by 1 connection, but follows the same firing order.

Also don't forget that there is 1 correct TDC, if the rotor arm is opposite to where is should be the engine will need to be rotated once to get the rotor arm to move by 180degrees
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks guys.

yes just revised a 33 workshop manual I had stored away.
Could have sworn I saw something else regarding the cylinder layout.

Oh well have to get permission from the wife to go to my garage again and spend some time with the 33.


Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Shocked
Embarassed Embarassed

OK inductive pick up on the right cable this time. Marks clearly shown under the light this time!!

8 degrees at static was good, maybe just a little retarded. Will adjust when I have time.
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweeetttt Smile
nice one.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a difference a small turn on the mixture screws can make.

Had a drive last night, was too lean and stumbling. Horrible.

Just another 1/4 turn out this morning before coming to work and so different.

Idling a little high so will turn this down (that may richen the mixture again a little) and check the timing again.

Also I was just kindly given excellent manuals for the DRLA for which I had been searching for.

Now it's all clear. Very good diagrams and instructions.

Getting the hang of this finally.


Very Happy Very Happy

My complete DRLA service kit is in the post also. That will be on standby for a complete removal and thorough cleaning (learning process) of my Dellorto's when I have a good weekend with plenty of time.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wondering if a 3 cmHg difference in the vacuum of one of the cylinders is acceptable.
Maybe turn out the air bypass screw a little?

Others hover around 22/23 cmHg. Cylinder 1 is around 25.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quiet today.

Well I'll answer myself Laughing Laughing

I tweaked the air bypass screw for one cylinder and now all 4 are 24 cmHg.
3 and 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws also.

8 degrees at 850 rpm.
Idles nice.

Test will be when I leave work on the highway!! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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BigAl
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet Smile
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very slight pinging in 4th and 5th. Have to retard it just a notch.

1/8th turn more rich also. Running smoother by the day as I practice.



Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds very good. Smile
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another issue.

Where the mid box meets the manifold has come a little loose.

So I can smell a little amount of fuel inside sometimes and the noise of course.
Sounds like a tractor under the car!!

I'll take it to the workshop Saturday to get it sealed.

Apart from that no stumble anymore. Accelerates smoothly throughout.

Will buy a new set of plugs and see how they look after 15 miles or so.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:35 am    Post subject: Too lean? Reply with quote

Confused Confused

mmm... thought I would just tweak the mixture in a little towards lean, sounded very crisp, responded well but ran hotter than normal which concerned me. Also took a while to heat up.
These are classic lean symptoms no? (or unbalanced carb)

I will check my balancing again and also richen it out again and keep an eye on the temp.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is taking some practice!!

I don't seem to get rpm change when screwing in or out the mixture screws, or noticeable vacuum change.

Not much change at all except for the engine temp and how the revs act after decelerating.

I've been doing this one cylinder at a time.

Just read somewhere that it is better to do 1/4 of a turn on every cylinder and see if the rpm increases or decreases.

Will clean out all the jets again and also the mixture screws.

Less than 3 1/2 turns then engine is hotter. Less than 3 turns revs drop slowly after decelerating (common sign of lean).

So now I have them almost 4 turns out with a slight stumble!!

If the mixture is too rich and butterflies open too much could this result in the air prgression ports working too much and idle ports less?

just read this as i expected (I think i've hit this point so i will start again, lowering rpm and turn in screws until it misfires):

Carburetors not responding to adjustments of the idle-mixture screws usually have too much of their transfer slots exposed at idle. If this situation exists, the transfer slots are probably already open and no fuel is available to mix with the incoming air until the discharge from the accelerator pump arrives. This condition is chiefly responsible for off-idle stumbles and hesitation. With the idle circuit correctly calibrated, control over the curb-idle circuits will be restored, the engine will run with the transfer slots closed, and a smooth transition from closed to fully-open throttle is assured
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting complicated! Do you know where the transfer slots are?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Making progress.

Carbs dismantled, cleaned and new gaskets, o-rings put in all screws. Mixture screws never had any gaskets or washers. Just the springs. Also the service kit for my carb didn't have any. Well they seemed to work fine without them.

Chambers below butterfly plates were filthy, with a black soot.
All polished and cleaned with carb cleaner, and a quick polish with a dremel.

AC compressor and radiator removed (2 days work). Complications with everything!!! Had to remove the front bumper and grill to get to the AC radiator and remove the hosing. 2 of the nuts holding the bumper didn;t have the integrated screw thread thingy so had a nut on the other side!!
Had to tape a socket wrench to the inside and get under the car to unbolt this, 1/8 of a turn at a time due to space limitations. only took about 45 mins!!!!!!!!!! for 1 nut.
AC filter removed. Not sure about the wiring yet.
Have to do some wire chasing to see where the main switches are.


Taken about 50 kilos off the car with the AC so far Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Had to do some painting to some rusty parts under behind the bumper.

This weekend hopefully I'll get the alternator back on, fan back on, clean the inlet manifolds and engine buts, check the dizzy points, new plugs in again with the correct gapping.


And last thing will be the carbs back on.
Then fingers crossed that all works again!!!
First time I've done this work Confused Confused Confused Confused


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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got evreything back in it's rightful place after a big struggle.
Alternator belt was tricky. Kept squeaking!! Hope it's not too tight now.

Started it up with the 55 idle jets and it was horrible. 2 turns out and couldn't get a good idle at all. Way too rich I believe.

So went back to the 52's and a whole 5 turns out and got a nice idle. Not road tested yet. It was pissing down.
Tomorrow will road test.

Such a difference between the 52's and 55's.
Well the Dellorto manual does suggest to begin with 5 full turns out.

If I still get the hesistation at 1700 rpm with the 52's I'll buy the 53's/54's and try them out to get something in between.
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're doing an impressive job. I've been learning too.
Balancing carbs with multi-manometer & air bypass screws and idle rest screws and the bar. (Air going through each should be equal and butterflies opening at the same time)
Setting the mixture setting screws for perfect idle.
Yes, via manufacturer's reccommendations, thought 55s would be too big.
Good stuff.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did some adjustments today. Was awful on cold start up.
I'm thinking this is due to a new fuel filter I put in.
It's always got an air gap in it! Just between the pump and left carb inlet.
Could this be causing an initial start up issue?

Once warmed up runs smooth.
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think it should. Until recently I had a filter from the fuel pipe from the tank, just before the pump. I think they always have air in them.
Don't forget the carbs already have a fine gauze filter where the fuel pipes attach to the carb.
Running will always be a little rougher until warm, (unless you muck around with the choke.) (Most of us never touch the choke.) but should be reasonable, having said that.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Paul,

The little gauze filter was cleaned when I did the overhaul. Someone also said that this extra paper filter is usually only 1/3 1/2 full so no worries there.

Choke: I disconnected as I don't need it and to discourage other drivers from using it who are not familiar with the car (in a private parking for example).

It needs a bit more fine tuning and running in. I'm going to buy a new set of 52 and 53 jets as I think my old ones are not all the same size (maybe 22 years old and a little worn!)

Question for you: do you find the vacuum port take offs have to be turned out exactly the same number of turns to measure the same vacuum on each gauge? 1/2 turn or something?
Still playing and practising with my vacuum gauges.
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paulhide
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the vacuum ports should read the same whatever, unless hardly open at all. Closing them a tiny bit might give a steadier reading.
As I understand it, these only enable you to get the balancing right with the air bypass screws. I have never touched these on my carbs though as all seemed fine.
You must get butterlies opening at exactly the same time.
You must get idle screw stops at exactly the right place so that both carbs are pulling equally on tickover. (If you keep screwing one in and not the other the tickover will become awful as one carb will be powering far more than the other.)
I think you have all this though?
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thxs Paul. Yes got all that.

I use 2 vacuum needle gauges attached to a small fish tank air valve to control to fluctuating. Works pretty well.

I use the 2 on one side at a time (using the airbypass screws) then one on each back port to balance left to right with the idle screws.
Takes a little time going back and forth getting the same vacuum.
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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

some pics of my set up after cleaning the carbs and removing the AC equipment.
still got to modify the air intake, needing to find some flexi tubing. Just got some plumbing joints with duck tape here!

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Brit01
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I had to remove:
You can see no clearance for any work, not even a spark plug! Both comp and bracket weighed about 30 kilos on 1 side of the engine.

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