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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2003 1:20 pm Post subject: 33 Series 1 and 2 differences |
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I'm considering buying a 1987 33 Gold Cloverleaf 1.5, and I'm wondering whether there's a way to tell whether it's series 1 or 2 and what the differences are. Is the engine size on a cloverleaf model a giveaway? I've seen variations in the dashboards between models, and other changes like rotating door locking knobs that look like giant inverted quotation marks etc.
Apparently series 1 models are the worst for rust, and this one I looked at had already had the outer body done and now needs work in the engine bay. |
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GaryUK Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 12:30 am Post subject: |
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Also check under the sill covers, front floor pans , rear suspension towers, boot pan, rear valance, infact everywhere. With a good srewdriver prod looking out for new underseal also use a magnet to insure it is metal and not Cataloy(only a real problem on structural areas).
I'd hold out for a 1.7 that extra 200cc is well worth the wait. Though the exhaust note of the 1.5 is alot nicer, you loose that sporty rasp on the 1.7 especially when backing off the throttle and letting the engine brake. |
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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 7:56 am Post subject: |
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Stupid questions here, but:
'Sill covers' = plastic guards running over the sides of the body at the bottom of the door area?
'rear valance' = ??
Is it sufficient to check the rear suspension towers from inside the car, or do you have to really get under the car and/or take the wheels off to look up in there?
Is it normal for these cars to vibrate at motorway speed and to have significant wind noise?
Now that you mention it, this carby 1.5 was the best-sounding 33 I've driven so far. I love the backfiring crackles!
As a current Japanese car driver, I'm finding Mr Marelli's Alfa electronics a source of amusement. Out of the many dials/gauges in that Gold Cloverleaf, only the temperature gauge seemed to give a sensible reading. Turn on the ventilation fan and the dash illumination dims and the fan starts scraping away. The rear window wiper motor squeals its head off, and the needle on the tachometer had curled up until the tip of it was almost scraping on the transparent tacho cover. It indicated 1000rpm or so when the car was turned off. The service history hinted at past electrical problems draining the battery, too..
What fun I have to look forward to! |
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Dreamracers Alfa Sprint
Joined: 19 May 2003 Posts: 236 Location: Sunny Zomerzet, UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 8:39 am Post subject: |
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1) Sill covers - Plastic covers over the panle that runs along between the bottom of the doors and the floor pan. - Yours may not have covers.
2) Suspension Tops - Well worth getting the wheels off if you have time and checking properly, especially on the fronts as the rot would tend to start inside rather than out.
3) Noise & Vibration - NO! Not normal for neither! Wind noise - check where it is coming from if it sounds like the top corner nearest the windscreen, we have had 2 33s where that happened and gentle "pursueding" of that corner back in sorted it (be careful not to over do it). Vibration could simply be wheel balancing?
4) Lovely noise - Oh yes! Carbs sound far sweeter - my Sud with its twin 38 Dellortos and with twin pea shooters out the back turn far more heads than the wifes 33
5) Electrics - Could be a dodgy alternator - if you get a chance to check in the dark, turn on as much electrical stuff as you can, wipers, lights on full beam, etc... and see if the electric warning light on the dash has a faint glow to it. The fuel guage is about as accurate as a tennis ball in a bow (or a British government pre-war dossier on Iraq), you'll get used to it
Despite all that, any faults that happen, they are seriously good fun and a better drivers car than almost anything else. You forgive them so much (even 2 busted gearboxes ) See Adam H's post HERE Sums up Alfa life perfectly |
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Dave_NZ Alfasud
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Posts: 56 Location: Amsterdam, NL
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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just out of interest, how much are you paying for the car? i bought a 1987 s2 1.7qv in january for $2000 and it is in pretty good nick. not too much rust, excellent interior and good paint and mechanical. I would have to say the a 1.5qv is a s1 and you can also tell by the dash, orange indicator lenses and different alloys. make sure that the strut pan bearings are done as this is a common problem. the 1.7 boxer has quite a bit of go which is noticeable over the 1.5. despite the quirks (read character), the 33 is an awesome car and i think that i am going to own a 33/sud/sprint of some kind for many years to come (well maybe an Integrale Evo as well). enjoy _________________ Looking for a type 2 33QV in NL |
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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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Dreamracers: Your description fits for the wind noise. I had a similar problem with my *cough* Mitsubishi Cordia until another owner demonstrated bracing a knee against the door and pulling the top frame back into shape.
The shake thing also feels like wheel balancing, but I have a shudder on my current car that getting the wheels supposedly balanced has only been able to reduce, not eliminate. It irritates me because it's still there. I'd prefer different problems on my new car, just for variety.
Dave_NZ: Sounds like you got a good deal, based on all the prices I've seen people asking for 33s. It probably helps that you don't live in Auckland, but it seems anything under $3000 for an OK 1.7qv that's not rusting to death is pretty good. This one I've been looking at must be a series 1, and I think I'll politely decline to purchase it because the owner is expecting a bit much for it. I'll wait for one where the price vs rust balance is more favourable. |
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Dave_NZ Alfasud
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Posts: 56 Location: Amsterdam, NL
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2003 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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have a look at the trade&exchange as there are always a few 33s for sale in there. for old listings you can look at www.te.co.nz to get an idea of prices. it should be possible to find a s2 with very little rust.
Dave _________________ Looking for a type 2 33QV in NL |
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Eddie W Alfa 33
Joined: 31 Jul 2003 Posts: 375 Location: new zealand
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 12:09 am Post subject: |
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Hi Ben
Your electrics sound a bit like the Alfa earthing problem. On the series 1 there is a round fitting on the passengers side of the engine bulkhead that has a lot of the individual earths connected. Clean all these carefully . Alfas go into a sulk if not driven every day and make their feelings known by pissing you off with the electrics, they require a certain degree of fatalism and sense of humour. Yours sounds to be cross earthing through another component. My typing's not too flash so I'll sign off,I live in papatoetoe so give me a call on 2798748 one night and I'll pass on what I've learnt about them. We've got an '86 1500, an'87 1500(mine) and a '90 1700 so I've picked up abit along the way.
Regards Eddie |
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Ben_nz Gold Cloverleaf
Joined: 30 Sep 2003 Posts: 575 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 12:58 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not too afraid of dodgy electrics; I work in electronics repair so Magneti can do his worst. And stuffed rear wiper motors etc hardly stop the car being driven. But if I run into trouble once I get a 33, Eddie, I'll give you a ring. =)
There's still the question of which model to go for.. do I get a s1/2 1.5 for the sound, s2 1.7qv for the power, or s3 1.7ie for the less rust/age/mileage? Or doesn't it matter as long as I don't go back to a Jappa automatic? |
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Dave_NZ Alfasud
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Posts: 56 Location: Amsterdam, NL
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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you're right about staying away from the jappa, but the thing to know is that the newer the car, the less sporty it sounds. my 1.7qv sounds awesome with its twin carbs and this sound is lost with the IE. The 1.7IE also has about the same power as the 1.5 twin carb. Personally i would go for a s2 to start off with so that you don't run into too many rust problems. I still want to buy a sud one day and restore it. at the end of the day, all 33s drive and act differently and it is up to personal preference as regards body looks and sound.
Dave. _________________ Looking for a type 2 33QV in NL |
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Eddie W Alfa 33
Joined: 31 Jul 2003 Posts: 375 Location: new zealand
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2003 6:29 am Post subject: |
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The series 2 has a different front suspension setup with more castor and lowered front pickup points to reduce the dive under brakes and lift under acceleration. Not all series1s in nz will have the vented brakes etc but I think all the 2s do .All the s2 1700s that I've seen have had the later suspension but I had to fit it to my '87 1500. I don't notice a huge difference between my 1500 and our 1700, but the 1500 has had a rebuild and the heads were tickled up. However I think the 1700 given the same treatment would be pretty tasty. Keep your eye on Trademe aswell as the T&E, a'90 1700 went recently for a little over 1K. It admittedly had a clutch problem but no rust . Aong with it were two 33s at scrap prices.
Eddie |
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Dave_NZ Alfasud
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Posts: 56 Location: Amsterdam, NL
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2003 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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Eddie, was it a big job to fit the new suspension to your '87 33. I ask this as my '87 1.7QV seems to have a lot of acceleration lift off and brake dive. Could the reason be that I have the older suspension fitted.
Thanks
Dave _________________ Looking for a type 2 33QV in NL |
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Eddie W Alfa 33
Joined: 31 Jul 2003 Posts: 375 Location: new zealand
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Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 4:32 am Post subject: |
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HI Dave
This is the 3rdgo at replying The connection keeps failing when I send it. The labour side is not bad. The later xmember has the pickup points lower by 20-25mm so the brackets for same are clearly lower to look at. You need the later xmember,the two suspension arms that make up the wishbone and the axles to match as they are slightly shorter to restore plunge to the inner cv. The suspension arms move the hub forward for extra castor. I do'nt know if there are differences in the struts but I used my old ones. There is still some lift but much less than before and turn in is sharper. If you need any more info just ask.
Regards Eddie |
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SAMANTHA Alfa Arna
Joined: 04 Nov 2003 Posts: 5
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Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:05 pm Post subject: hi i wonder if u could help me |
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im looking for a scale model of the alfa 33 1989 addition do u have any ideas where i could find one??
its for my boyfriend for xmas
please help me |
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Dino33 Guest
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Dreamracers Alfa Sprint
Joined: 19 May 2003 Posts: 236 Location: Sunny Zomerzet, UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 9:10 am Post subject: |
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Try Ebay Anytime I search for anything for the 33 or the Sud there are about 3000 (slight over inflation) models. I suggest trying "items available to the UK" and searching "Alfa 33"
Hope this helps _________________ (00=\°/=00) (00=\°/=00)
Alfasud 1.7Ti & Alfasud 1.3Ti
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SAMANTHA Alfa Arna
Joined: 04 Nov 2003 Posts: 5
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Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 3:13 pm Post subject: thanks |
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already tried those ones guys with no luck but thanks any way, |
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Dino33 Guest
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Dino33 Guest
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Dreamracers Alfa Sprint
Joined: 19 May 2003 Posts: 236 Location: Sunny Zomerzet, UK
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Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2003 12:00 am Post subject: nothing |
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that one on ebay has gone
i dont think they even made a red one
never mind thanks for ur help guys |
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