Alfa Pages

[ar116a]

I've managed to snap off one of the studs flush with the head

Have already tried drilling - no luck

... with toughened drill bit - even less effective

Snap-on 'easy-out' snapped off and stayed in

Will it be safe to drill the whole lot out and rethread?

My only other option is to rob the head from a 1990 1.7ie engine I have spare - is there any/much difference betweeen these?

Thanks in advance

[Paul D.]

Does it work with this system: drill hole in thread-piece, draw in left turning thread, turn in left-threaded bit till end en by thitening that the thread piece comes turning out? or is it: drill hole, smash in hex-bit and try to turn out.
Couldn't give a sollution elseways too. Maybe giving it a good smack so it "frightens" itself loose....

regards and succes!

Paul D.

[ar116a]

Thanks Paul, but unfortunately not!

Hitting, heating - we've tried it all

Suggestions, please, on a postcard …

[rjbevan]

Hi Paul, I would have thought it would be OK to drill it out but would have thought you would need to use a Helicoil insert as you will damage the original thread when you drill the stud out. The problem is that the head and stud are 2 different materials and you get corrosion between the metals. If you have never done Helicoils, then maybe it would be best to take to an Engineering shop (I've not either!).

I had to replace the exhaust manifold studs on my engine and I was dreading one of the studs breaking. I've only done one side, yet to do the other bank so hope I'm lucky.

Wish you luck.

Richard

[Matt Stolton]

Don't heat the head, or bang it excessively, as the last thing you want to do is warp it with localised heat or stress.

Helicoils are the answer, as they are the muts nuts. I was watching/hindering Lloyd at clovertech rebuild a S2 8V, which had had its exhaust manifold bolts FUBARed by some madcanic/kwik fitter. The judicious use of the correct helicoils, gives better grip than the original thread to the bolt, and puts less stress on the head than recutting an original thread.

Of course, there is always a downside, and that is of course price. Helicoil kits are not cheap, but they are so easy to use it is probabaly worth it. It avoids a lot of further damage to the head, which would be even more expensive!!
_________________
Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[Matt Stolton]

When you put the exhaust back on, it is also worth investing in some copper nuts, to replace to corroded ones. Seems to work, and not seize up long term.

Just something else Lloyd was up to....
_________________
Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[ar116a]

Thanks Matt, I'll look into it

[rjbevan]

Or use brass nuts for the exhaust manifold. They even stock them at B & Q! Though you may find the studs are so badly corroded that you should change these as well.

Richard

[Buck Bundy]

I think he probably ment brass nuts.

I've not heard of copper nuts.

Are the B&Q nuts deep enough? Manifold nuts are usually a bit deeper than your normal ones, quite important as they are softer so more prone to rounding.

Buck
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Sprint Veloce 1.5 - Ebay £310!!! (In need of TLC)

[Matt Stolton]

They may have been brass, but I wasn't paying close attention to Lloyds Tech speak, and I remember them looking copper like in colour.

I shall confirm after a visit to Lloyd's sometime.
_________________
Regards

Matt

Ex Alfa 33 'GTA' (P4 with Knobs On)
Now cruising in a 166 3.2 Ti!!

[PJ]

Might be worth a try:
Grind a slit across the top of the sheared stud and then use an impact driver with the big flat bit to get the stud started. Then a big screw driver might be enough with some squirty to help it on it's way.
To make the slot, I would use something lie a 'dremmil' or it's cheaper equivalent from a DIY store - mine cost £15 and is fine for light work.
All the best
PJ.